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dinwiddie
Barrel Sampler
Posts:2178
 | | 02/04/2007 2:43 PM |
| Last night I joined a group from donrockwell.com for a dinner prepared by Gerard Pangaud at L'Academie de Cuisine. Chef Pangaud, who was the youngest chef ever to be awarded two stars in France, has been the head instructor at L'Academie for quite a while and his students are well known throughout the area.
Before dinner, while the group was enjoying a glass of L. Aubry Fils Champagne Brut, Chef Pangaud spoke to the group, telling us a little about his life, his students, and the meal we were to have.
Dinner began with a Soup of Salsifis and Black Truffle finished with a Flan of Foie Gras. It was an absolutly wonderful soup, simple yet rich, creamy and delicious. I'd say it was funny to watch the folks there wipe up every drop of the soup with the wonderful bread that was passed, but I was too busy making sure I didn't miss a single drop to watch. I don't know why more chefs don't use salsifi as a soup base as it was out of this world.
The soup was accompanied by a 2002 Domaine Jo Pithon Coteaux du Layon Les 4 Villages. Amber colored, this Loire white was an elegant sweet wine, full of finesse. I was suprised at how well it went with the soups as I would have probably paired a dryer version of a Chenin Blanc, but it was perfect.
The second course was my favorite, Rockfish with "Four Spices" and jus de vin rouge, served with potatoes sauteed in duck fat. I think this course was the favorite of most of the people at the table. It was perfectly cooked, and one of those dishes where you had to put your fork down between each bite so you could let the pleasure of each bite linger.
The third course was Seven Hour Leg of Lamb with Lentils from Le Puy. Chef Pangaud braised the lamb forever at 200 degrees, and it was so tender you could eat it with a spoon. He shredded it, mixed it with some minced and sauted shallots, sweated garlic, and jus then molded it to serve over a bed of lentals. (I was amazed that the two baby whole carrots that were served over the top, one orange, one yellow, were so good as I do not like cooked carrots, but these were wonderfully crisp to counterpoint the lamb's tenderness, and I finished both, even the green tops.)
The second and third courses were accompanied by a 2004 Domaine la Roubine Gigondas. Still young but a wonderful floral nose, rasberrys and graphite, well structured, a very good wine.
For the finale, Chef Pangaud prepared his signature dessert, a Mango Tart Tatin Caramelized with Ginger with a Coulis of Passion Fruit. I loved it, but you marry anything with Passion fruit and I'm all over it. It was paired with a 2003 Domaine Jo Pithon Saint Lambert Les Bonnes Blondes. Elegant, concentrated wine, with good acidity and flavours that lingered for a long time. wonderful mouthfeel, it was the hit of the night. The chef apologized that it was really too young, but who could resist. It made the folks at the table with me want to explore dessert wines.
The meal was served in the kitchen of L'Academie de Cuisine and we got to watch the chef and his students prepare the meal. The students provided the service, and I think that it is a good thing that they learn how to do it properly (they were all wonderful and very professional, I wish every restaurant had such good service) because nothing ruins a great chef like a bad front of the house. It was a wonderful evening and we had to be shooed out of the kitchen so the chef and the students could go home. | | | |
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