This is a summary of notes from my two-week trip to Argentina that included 4 days in Mendoza. Good food, great wine, friendly people, and a great exchange rate with the U.S. dollar. I also include lodging and food notes.
General comments: I used a “general” travel agent for arranging travel to Iguaçu Falls, Buenos Aires, Mendoza, and Patagonia. In reflection, I should have used agency specializing in Mendoza wine tours (see links below). Wine tourism in Argentina is in its infancy so don’t expect a Napa-type experience. Most bodegas require advance arrangements, they offer tours with no separate walk-in tasting room, and most only pour 2-3 of their lowest price wines from their basic product line so check ahead if you want tasting from premium or reserve lines. Also, if you don’t speak Spanish, check whether tours offered in English. About geography: most of the wineries in the Mendoza Region are south of Mendoza City; to southeast is the Maipu area or department and to the southwest is Lujan de Cuyo.
See some photos at
Mendoza Photos If anyone has questions, please PM me.
Day 1-3: Iguaçu Falls. Stayed at the Hotel Das Cataratas (on Brazilian side, within national park and next to falls). Downside for Americans is need for Brazilian visa. Our last day was spent on Argentina side of falls. Make sure you walk to viewing platform on edge of the Devil’s Throat, but plan for way to keep camera dry.
Day 4: Buenos Aires. Stayed at LoiSuites in Recoleta, which is adjacent to the cemetery (which may sound odd as attraction, but the crypts can be up to two stories high and very elaborate). Truly a necropolis and worth seeing. If I go back, while LoiSuites was fine, I’d check out the Sofitel Buenos Aires.
Had dinner at two popular steak houses, Las Cabanas in Recoleta and Cabanas Las Lilas in Puerto Madero (at the docks). I’d recommend Las Cabanas for lack of touristy approach.
Wines: 1) Tapiz Reserve Malbec 04. For the price, about $US18 retail, one of the most impressive wines of my trip. Dark fruit and enough structure to go with grilled steak.
2) “Q” from Zuccardi Malbec 02. Fruit not as distinctive or forthcoming as Tapiz and some bitterness on finish.
Note: Tapiz is called Zolo in the US and used to be owned by Kendall-Jackson. Besides any local importer, check out
www.southernwines.com for availability; unfortunately, this site doesn’t list the Reserves.
Days 5-8, Mendoza region. Stayed at the Postales del Plata’s Uco Valley Lodge first two nights (about one hour south of Mendoza at Tunuyan) and at the Club Tapiz in Maipu (south of Mendoza City) for 3d and 4th nights.
www.postalesdelplata.com,
www.tapiz.com.Cavas de Weinert: Interesting to see what a historic winery looks like, especially for use of large oak barrels. But they poured basic wines only (Carrascal Sauvignon Blanc 05 and Carrascal Red 03). When I asked about anything special, they poured me a Cavas de Weinert 00 (red blend), which had some aged nuances, but not very complex.
Alta Vista: Modern facility. Malbec Premier Rose 05 is good picnic wine. Malbec Grand Reserve Terroir Selection 2004 was my favorite, very dark, black cherry fruit, oaky, intense and extracted. Based on tannins presented, needs a few more years of aging. Ordered a bottle of the ’04 for dinner three nights later at Club Tapiz: wine was almost too much for the appetizers, but went well with second course of grilled venison. Alta Vista did not pour its top wine, the Alto, however, we tasted the Alto 01 on last night of trip: beautiful dark fruit nose and well-developed flavors that got better through the night, with great balance and structure.
Nieto Senetiner: Its Nieto Scientiner Bonarda 04 had a funky nose, with pleasant black fruit taste, with some dryness/chalkiness. Its Don Nicanor Merlot 03 had a veggie nose, light body, little initial fruit, with acid remaining on finish. Its Cadus Malbec 02 (had with lunch, decanted) is a single vineyard bottling with dark color, some leather on nose, dark and developed fruit tastes, with noticeable tannin and good structure, but lacked some complexity and staying power in mouth.
Fabre Montmayou: Heard some good things, but whatever they were pouring wasn’t inspiring. A Malbec 00 was simply ok and an unoaked Cabernet Sauvignon (no note of year) was also just ok.
Asked local agency if we could visit Catena Zapata (www.nicolascatena.com) and Achaval Ferrer (www.achaval-ferrer.com) , but for some reason they couldn’t confirm tours.
Dinner at Uco Valley Lodge (met Michel Rolland). I visited their wine cellar to make personal selection for dinner. Manager suggested the Clos de las Siete and first mentioned that it was project of Michel Rolland then secondly he mentioned Mr. Rolland was having dinner at the restaurant that night. As I was walking into the restaurant we literally ran into Mr. Rolland (he and a male companion were meeting a couple staying at the Lodge). He brought 3 bottles of his Val de Flores. Our tables were the only ones occupied that night. Towards the end of the meal, Mr. Rolland sent over a 1/3 full bottle of Val de Flores 02. Very good, dark color, silky, and extracted. Great wine. He also left a partially full bottle of the 03 at the lodge, and since we were the only ones dining in the restaurant the following night, we finished that as well. Same tasting impression as the 02. I believe Mr. Rolland owns this project and is not just a consultant. The Clos de las Siete was ok but overshadowed when compared to the Val de Flores.
Bodega Selentein: architectural gem, worth visiting for this aspect alone. Their oaked Sauvignon Blanc (didn’t record year) had nice aroma, good acid and pleasant finish. The Malbec 03 didn’t seem well integrated, and taste is stuck on primary, red fruit. Their Pinot 03 initially lacked the cherry nose and bright fruit tastes I am used to from New World PN’s, but after some aeration in the glass, it started opening a bit, with red fruit flavors and good acid. Could use some aging.
www.bodegasalentein.comAltus: This winery located in the northern regions of Uco Valley (Tupungato), is a must for lunch (Bistro la Tupina).
www.gvt.net.ar. The hostess, who lived in NYC for awhile, is working with the owners to develop Altus’ wine tourism business. This was my first time tasting a white verietal called Torrentes and found it to be like Viognier. Their 04 went well with the first courses of lunch – served on a nice sunny veranda overlooking the vineyard. My wife kept drinking the Torrentes throughout lunch. The Merlot 03 had weak nose with some spice and pepper taste and tannin on finish. The Grand Vin 00 is a blend of Tempranillo, Malbec, and Syrah. Weak nose but good secondary fruit taste and structure. Went well with meat course.
Largarde: I paid $US60 for a reserve tasting of 8 wines. Sauv Blanc 05 had good aroma and fresh crisp taste with citrus finish. The Semillion 04 was good with pear and apple notes. The Syrah 04 had red fruit nose but black fruit taste with some tobacco and tannins. The Malbec DOC 02 had good secondary fruit nose, with balance, structure and smooth finish. The Guarda 02 (blend of Malbec, CS, Merlot and Syrah) had initial sweetness on tongue with secondary, black fruit flavors. The Henry 03 Cab Franc had good secondary fruit nose, some sweetness, but lacked complexity. The Henry No. 1 01 (blend of CF and Syrah) had secondary fruit nose with some black fruit and vegetable tastes, and smooth finish. The Late Harvest 04 had hints of cinnamon or mace, very smooth.
www.lagarde.com.arLa Rural. The museum part of the winery is educational, but they only poured two of their cheapest wines.
Mendoza City, tasting room at The Vines of Mendoza.
www.vinesofmendoza.com. This tasting room just opened, just off the main square and around the corner from the Park Hyatt. Owners or part-owners are from California. You can sign up for their newsletter and order wines in US through a mirror business in California (unique business model). Tasted a reserve flight (cost of $US30): Angelica Zapata Malbec Alta 01, had sweet red fruit flavor with dark notes like chocolate, smooth and balanced, with light finish. O’Fournier A Crux 01 (blend) had dark color, tarry nose, dark fruit and mocha taste with some slight bitter finish. The Luca Syrah 02 shows black fruit with some smokiness, concentrated, and smooth finish. Didn’t taste like a syrah. Carmelo Patti Gran Assemblage 02 had an anice/liquorish nose, with secondary fruit taste, some oak, and tannins at finish. The Achaval-Ferrer Finca Altamira 03 was the best of the tasting, with dark fruit nose and taste and silkiness that balanced well against a brightness and acidity.
The current Vines of Mendoza newsletter recommend these guides/agencies:
www.uncorkingargentina.com,
www.amazingmendoza.com,
www.tastingmendoza.com,
www.aventurawine.com,
www.postalesdelplata.com, and
www.thegrapevine-argentina.com. I had used LADATCO out of Florida working with Huentata (www.huentata.com.ar) as local agency.
Restaurant at Club Tapiz is called Terrunos and it drew guests from outside the hotel. Very good food, with good wine list.
Dinner at “1884” Francis Mallman restaurant in southern suburbs of Mendoza (Godoy Cruz).
www.escorihuela.com.ar. Travel agent recommended, and it’s worth a visit. Select food cooked in clay oven. Great wine list. Met one of the Norton reps in the bar who was there to meet their U.S. wine distributor. A few glasses of Norton made it over to our table for tasting. We had Dona Paula 02 Proprietor’s Selection Malbec based on recommendation of sommelier: deep color, secondary fruit nose and taste, silky and structured. Very good.
Days 9-12, Flew to El Calafate in Patagonia region and stayed at Los Notros Lodge within the National Glacier Park.
www.losnotros.com. All meals at Lodge (all inclusive). Tried the Yacochuyo Malbec 02 first night. A Michel Rolland project, from Northwest Argentina (Salta). High alcohol, over 15%. Good, but was too extracted and not a favorite. Tried Catena Zapata 01 Estiba Reserve Agrelo (blend) on second night based on recommendation of sommelier - and desire to try a top Zapata wine while in Argentina. Fabulous wine. Very restrained and not as extracted as other wines we had been tasting, but had depth and structure that kept developing through the dinner. On third night, tried Ruca Malen Malbec 03. Nose showed some third level notes as if long-aged wine, but taste was simple and disappointing.
Days 13-14, Buenos Aires, back at LoiSuites in Recoleta. Dinner at Le Sud, Sofitel Buenos Aires. Great French food and service. Had Alta Vista Alto ’01 (notes above). At airport duty free, bought a 98 Alto (will taste soon).
Wine Shops in Buenos Aires: Based on what I visited, “The Winery” has best selection, especially for prior vintages, and has stores in several areas near major hotels. They also sold me a 6-bottle canvas wine tote (which they also have in leather) that made it easy for a carry-on.
Reference Book: Vineyards, Wineries and Wines of South America, 2006 edition, in Spanish and English, by Austral Spectator.
www.australspectator.com. ISBN: 987-20914-3-9.