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Another trip to LA-Tasting Notes and Restaurant Report-Long
Last Post 03-26-2003 03:00 PM byPool Boy. 3 Replies.
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JimmyV  Send Private Message
Central Connecticut
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03-25-2003 04:36 PM  
First off, let me say that I WILL post all of these TNs in the proper place, but I just got back, and it will take time. But I wanted to get these on the board while they were still fresh.

Wednesday, March 19.
First night, dined at Lucques. Suzanne Goin (formerly of Campanille) opened this place a while back to great reviews. It is very popular, as evidenced by it being filled on wednesday night. Crowd was all over the board. A table of 4 seventy-somethings next to a table of 6 twenty-somethings. Gay, straight, and everything else that LA has to offer. Nice to see such diversity.

Arrived on time for my 7:30 reservation. Dined alone. Was brought to what was obviously the worst table in the place, stuck between the bar and the front door. I expressed my preference for sitting in the patio area, and offered up an excuse that I was traveling from the cold northeast, and wanted as much fresh air as I could get. Thankfully, I was accomodated, although the patio was closed that night with a tarp, and they had gas heaters going full blast. C'mon folks. It was in the mid-60s!

Nice looking bistro feel with lots of exposed brick. Nothing at all pretentious about the place. Service was prompt and generally efficient. Only complaint was that I had to wait 2 or 3 minutes after my entree was set before me to get my glass of wine. I specifically told the waiter when I ordered that I wanted the Chardonnay now, and the Cabernet with my entree. The wine should have been brought moments before the dinner, with the statement that the entree would be out very shortly. An apology was offered with the glass.

Short but well chosen wine list. (1999 Blankiet is on the list for under $250. If I had been there with others, I would have tried it. Doesn't this sell for more at auction?)

Uncomplicated menu. Nothing bizzare. The kind of place where you could close your eyes and point, and you'd get something you'd like. I started with Spring Onion Soup. Menu stated that it had gruyere cheese, but I certainly didn't find any. This is not the usual "crock-o-onion soup" that most places serve. This came in a shallow bowl, and was really more of a consomme, with a bit of spring onion in it. Frankly, rather bland. I added salt, and I NEVER do that. I would advise choosing something else. Paired with '99 August Briggs RR Chardonnay ordered by the glass. See below.

Entree was the signature short ribs. Wonderful flavor and texture. My only complaint was the horseradish cream sauce unceremoniously glopped on the top. It ruined the look of the dish, and added nothing to the flavor. It wasn't distasteful. Just unnecessary and ugly. I would gladly order this again, but would first ask if having the sauce placed to the side would offend the chef. Paired with 1999 Plumpjack Cab ordered by the glass. See below.

Still on east coast time, as I had flown in just hours before, my stomach was telling me it was after midnight, so I skipped dessert.

Final thought: Very good, but I don't think it rose to the level of "great". Zagat has this as a 27 for food. That's too high. I'd say 24 is more like it. But if you haven't been, give it a try.

Thursday, March 20
Tried Cicada. Wanted something within walking distance of downtown. Really cool art deco room. Huge in scale and design. But rather creepy, as at 7:00, I was one of only 5 patrons in the place. Too big a room to be so empty.

Nice selections on the wine list, but a bit pricey for my taste. Settled in on a 1999 Cuvaison Carneros Chardonnay for $39. See below.

First course was a marinated artichoke bottom (huge) with micro-greens tossed with a light vinegarette. Very well done, and didn't kill the wine, surprisingly.

Second course was linguini with lobster. Meat of half a 1 1/4 pounder in the sauce, with half the tail served still in the shell, finished on the grill. A really nice dish. Not so tomatoe-y as to kill the wine. Very professional service as well. (Not too hard when 5 servers are attending to 5 customers.) Difficult to say much about the crowd, because the cross-sampling was so limited. They seemed like locals, but certainly not the pre-Oscars crowd. Table next to me was definitely LA. Spoke about plastic surgical procedures as if they were chatting about the weather. Did hear some interesting culinary gems: To the waiter: "What's a micro-green?" OK. I'll overlook that one. Then came: "I thought a shallot was a type of seafood." "No Dear. You're thinking of a scallop." I love dining alone and people watching!

Finished with a very credible creme brulee.

Final thougt. If you're stuck downtown, seek this place out. You'll apparently have no trouble getting a table, and the food was quite good.

Friday, March 21
Dined with a large group at Alex. The newish hot spot in the city.
Big, classic wine list. We bought a Marcassin Chard and a Puligny-Montrachet. See below. We toted in 4 reds-2 Bordeaux and 2 Mondavi's. See below.

Prix Fixe menu for $60. Appetizer, First Course, Second Course and Dessert.

Started with a skate preparation with diced vegetables. Very tasty, and a good match for the whites.
Fisrt course was Veal Cheek, braised in a rich brown sauce. My course of the night. Velvety soft and smooth. Could have eaten much more of this.
Second course was a shortrib and prime fillet mixed grill. The short rib piece was too small, even for a tasting menu. It was smaller than the veal cheek. The fillet was properly cooked medium rare, and very flavorful. In all honesty, I was simply looking for a foil for the reds we were going to drink, and lots of other people chose my first option of lamb, so I went with something else. But it was good. Just a little too small for a second course. (Note: one diner ordered the seared Togu Tuna; a cut usually reserved for Sashimi. It was spectacular. Like aquatic foie gras. There was a surcharge for this, but worth it.)

Dessert was a 3 chocolate cake. Three layers of mouuse, white, milk and dark chocolate. Very nice, but in contrast to the preceding course, this was actually too big. Dessert wine selection were woeful. The menu had not one Port or Sauterne. We went with a Riesling, which wasn't really a dessert wine. I would definitely bring a sticky if you want one, and don't rely on them to provide one.

Final thought. A very nice see-and-be-seen spot. Wide open vistas for celebrity gazing. Professional service, and very well-prepared food. And not a bad deal for $60. Worth repeat business.

And here below are the tasting notes from the trip. In addition to dining out, on Friday afternoon/early evening, there was a casual Pinot tasting. A "bring whatever you want and share" kind of thing. Wines were not tasted blind, but were poured into Riedel Burgundy glass.

DATE: 3/19
PLACE: Lucques-LA
WINERY: August Briggs
WINE: Russian River
VARIETAL: Chardonnay
VINTAGE: 2000
PRICE: N/A
COLOR: Deep Gold (Restaurant was very dark, so color may not be accurate.)
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Floral, with buttered oak and spice on the nose. Creamy texture with tropical fruit and honey. Seemed a bit fat as it warmed, but, still, a nice effort.
SCORE: 88

DATE: 3/19
PLACE: Lucques-LA
WINERY: Plumpjack
WINE: Oakville
VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon
VINTAGE: 1999
PRICE: N/A
COLOR: Inky dark purplish black (Restaurant was very dark, so color may not be accurate.)
BODY: Full
NOTES: Unusual experience here. This wine was ordered by the glass to accompany the restaurant’s signature short ribs entrée. When brought to the table, I swirled, sniffed and tasted. The first taste was terrific. Gobs of jammy dark fruit, like black raspberry preserves. A wonderful anise and chocolate finish. Very enjoyable. But then the wine completely shut down in the glass. Everything but the first sip was a harsh, tannic bitter pill to swallow. This wine certainly has the structure to shine in the future, but I would let it sleep, or decant for 3-4 hours if drinking now.
SCORE: 92 for the first sip. But the rest of the glass was an 84. I am inclined to think that this is more the former.

DATE: 3/20
PLACE: Cicada-LA
WINERY: Cuvaison
WINE: Napa Valley Carneros
VARIETAL: Chardonnay
VINTAGE: 1999
PRICE: $39 Off List
COLOR: Medium Gold
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Sour citrus on the nose, with lime, grapefruit, lemon, grass.
Crisp, bracing and clean. Moderate oak influence. Nice seafood wine. A bit simple on the finish. Paired with marinated artichoke bottom with micro-greens, and linguini with lobster.
SCORE: 87
Good restaurant QPR

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Ata Rangi
WINE: Martinborough N.Z.
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 2001
PRICE:
COLOR: Clear plum red
BODY: Medium
NOTES: New World red fruit. No Burgundian funkiness.
Crisp, zesty sour cherry and strawberry. Straightforward and tasty. Moderate finish with lingering tannins. A bit young but approachable now.
SCORE: 88

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Dominique Laurent
WINE: Volnay
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 1996
PRICE:
COLOR: Moderate bricking-faded red
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Huge barnyard nose. Full of Old World funkiness. Must and dust.
This wine is aged twice in new oak. It shows. Smoky, brooding pinot. A few minutes in the glass bring out strawberry and cranberry briskness. With the underlying vanillin, you get the sense of strawberries and cream.
SCORE: 90, once you get past the barn door at the beginning.

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Chehalem
WINE: Rion Reserve
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir-OR
VINTAGE: 1999
PRICE:
COLOR: Clear plum red
BODY: Medium+
NOTES: Earthy mushrooms and forest nose, much more so than fruit.
Crisp fresh cherry and berry attack. A definite chocolatey finish.
SCORE: 90

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Mac Murray Ranch
WINE: Russian River
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 2000
PRICE:
COLOR: Strawberry red
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Nose of fruit, fruit and more fruit. Quite a contrast from the earthy wines here.
As expected, the flavor profile is bursting with sweet cherry and vanilla. Very well balanced and tasty, if a tad simple for those who prefer greater depth in a pinot.
SCORE: 89

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Frei Brothers
WINE: Russian River Reserve
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 2000
PRICE:
COLOR: Plum and garnet
BODY: Medium+
NOTES: Tasted twice 45 minutes apart. First taste immediately upon opening showed nothing. Tight as a drum. Second try revealed Burgundian earthiness and vanilla, with a touch of fruit in the background.
First taste was tough and tannic. Little fruit coming through. Second taste showed a much more open, refined wine. Still tannic, but crisp cherry and vanilla flavors made this a dramatically improved wine.
SCORE: 88 (Based on second tasting only)

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Rodney Strong
WINE: Reserve
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 1999
PRICE:
COLOR: Garnet
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Simple red fruit with little depth.
One dimensional . Tasty fruit, but nothing behind it. Certainly not unpleasant, but lacking in depth to make you want more.
SCORE: 86

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: J
WINE: Russian River
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 2000
PRICE:
COLOR: Clear Garnet
BODY: Light
NOTES: Fruity, almost like punch.
Must be getting tired. This makes two thin, simple Kool-Aid wines in a row. Not unpleasant, but thin and grapey with little else to display the art of the varietal. A picnic wine.
SCORE: 85

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Bridlewood
WINE: Winners Circle Selection
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir
VINTAGE: 2000
PRICE:
COLOR: Pale Garnet
BODY: Medium
NOTES: New World fruit and no earth
Tart, tannic medium red fruit and a tad sour.
SCORE: 84

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Starr
WINE: Reserve Bert's Blend
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir-OR
VINTAGE: 1996
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Strong Burgundian barnyard nose. Earthy and leathery.
Crisp cherry and strawberry. Nicely aged and balanced.
SCORE: 88

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: TASTING WITH FRIENDS
WINERY: Witness Tree
WINE: Vintage Select
VARIETAL: Pinot Noir-OR
VINTAGE: 2000
PRICE:
COLOR: Bright Garnet
BODY: Medium+
NOTES: Wonderful Vanillin nose with ample cherry and strawberry tones.
Lush, elegant and bright with clean concentratedred fruit flavor. Terrific balance of fruit, acid and oak. I really liked this one.
SCORE: 91




DATE: 3/21
PLACE: Alex-LA
WINERY: Marcassin
WINE: Three Sisters
VARIETAL: Chardonnay
VINTAGE: 1998
PRICE: $185 off list
COLOR: Medium Gold
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Tropical and sweet. Pineapple, honey, fig and vanilla.
Taste follows the nose. Sweet, tasty well-balanced with tropical fruit and oak. Lingering finish. Lovely.
SCORE: 93

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: Alex-LA
WINERY: Dom LeFlaive
WINE: Puligny-Montrachet Combettes
VARIETAL: Chardonnay
VINTAGE: 1999
PRICE: $135 off list
COLOR: Medium Gold
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Crisp cirtus, apple, apricot minerals and slate.
Vibrant fruit. Nice pineapple and lime notes with typical minerality. Not as deep or long on the finish as would have been predicted from this producer. But very enjoyable nonetheless.
SCORE: 91

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: Alex-LA
WINERY: Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou
WINE: St. Julien
VARIETAL: Bordeaux
VINTAGE: 1982
PRICE: N/A
COLOR: Ruby Red to the rim with little or no bricking.
BODY: Medium
NOTES: Nose was woodsy, earthy with cedar, cigar wrapper and coffee.
Not decanted. Poured and drank. Still packed with fruit. Black cherry, black raspberry, plum and vanilla. Tannins mostly faded from sight. However, this wine began to fade noticeably after 45 minutes. The back half of bottle number two had nothing left after an hour and a half. Enjoy soon, and don't decant or let it sit around too long.
SCORE: 92

DATE: 3/21
PLACE: Alex-LA
WINERY: Mondavi
WINE: Reserve
VARIETAL: Cabernet
VINTAGE: 1987
PRICE: N/A
COLOR: Deep inky purple. No bricking.
BODY: Full
NOTES: Nose of plum, coffee, chocolate and tobacco.
Not decanted. Still plenty of life here. Good balance of tannin and fruit. Complex dark fruit, cedar and espresso flavors. Lingering chocolate finish. Powerful Oakville profile. Very enjoyable
SCORE: 94
Beta testing a new signature.
David Walker  Send Private Message
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03-25-2003 05:07 PM  
Wow, thanks for taking the time on such an informative write-up.

I'm impressed that to read you're not afraid to seek out better restaurants when dining alone. I thought I was the only one who did that.
Winetex  Send Private Message
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03-25-2003 08:30 PM  
Jimmyv - your notes are great. Thanks for sharing. You were a busy guy! Get any work done??
Pool Boy  Send Private Message
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03-26-2003 03:00 PM  
Thanks for the great notes and write-up.

By the way, dining alone can be quite enjoyable I think. I rarely do it, since Mrs. TJ and I are both ‘foodies”, but it does happen upon occasion. It’s fun in that you can order whatever you want however you want and you can people watch and eavesdrop and more. Besides, one cardinal rule Mrs. TJ and I have is that we each have to order different things for each course so we can taste more of the menu…
www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com
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