2/4 Thee Bungalow in San Diego
Wine: '99 Stag's Leap SLV Cabernet (in split) $39 from The Wine Bank in San Diego. $7.50 corkage for half bottle at restaurant.
Paired with: Appetizer-Mussels Francaise-steamed mussels with white wine and cream broth; Second Course-Tomato Soup, (soup of the day or salad served complimentary with each entree); Main Course-Roast Duck with Cumberland Sauce (a sweet black cherry sauce).
Wine Notes: Not decanted. As a result, this wine started out tough. Copious swirling in the glass helped a little to open it up. Nose of Earl Grey tea, cassis and blackberries, with a hint of rosemary. Surprisingly muted nose, and taste as well. No off-putting flavors, but nothing special either. In the mouth I got the sense that the wine bordered on high-quality, but as I swallowed, everything seemed to disappear, fading to the point of mediocrity. Not a bad wine, but I had hoped for more. Perhaps in time, this will show better. The nose certainly suggests so. For the price I paid retail, I could have had a split of '94 Staglin off the list, which is probably drinking better now.
89 PTS
Overall impression of the restaurant: Almost the same reaction as the wine. That is to say, I expected much more. I was seated on time, but was shown to the worst table in the place. (The hazards of dining alone). I politely asked for a different table, but was told that they needed the rest for "larger parties". Not likely on a Tuesday night. Waiter scrutinized the bottle I brought in to "make sure it wasn't on the list", which brings me to an interesting question: If a restaurant has a 750 ml or magnum of a bottle you bring in by the split, but doesn't have the 375 ml, and you are dining alone, would the restaurant refuse to open your bottle and make you order a whole bottle?? After confirming that they did not have the SLV, my wine was opened and poured into an average, thick restaurant wine glass. After the first pour, my wine was ignored by the server, and I had to take care of the rest.
I scrutinized the wine list, and as I had been led to believe from fellow Board Posters, the wine list was spectacular. The only reason I brought my own was that even in great places, half bottle selections and wines by the glass are usually poor. I didn't want to take any chances. With the exception of the Staglin noted above, the half bottle selection paled in comparison to the rest of the top-notch list, and the wines offered by the glass were an embarrassment. But if you are looking for 750s, they have a wonderful selection.
The food: The mussels appetizer was wonderful. Not overcooked, and the flavors were right on. Unfortunately, I should have stopped there. A disclaimer on the Tomato Soup: I don't like tomato soup. I rank it just above soups made with cucumbers or watermelon. But it was the only offering, and I didn't want to wrestle with a salad while dinking a tannic cab. Nevertheless, tomato soup depends entirely on the quality and freshness of the principle component--the tomatoes. Why a restaurant would want to showcase tomatoes in a soup in February is beyond me. August or September, fine. But not February. Let's just say that on a scale of 1 to 10, if Campbell's Tomato Soup is a 2, and Progresso is a 4, this was a 4.5. Bland, boring and without any care or soul from the kitchen.
The Duck entree fared no better. I selected this dish because it is held out to be the restaurant's "signature dish". If that is the case, then the signature is illegible. It is not necessary to overcook the duck in order to make it crispy. And ladling on a cherry sauce can't repair this flaw. The side dish of mixed vegetables (mashed potatoes, carrots and creamed spinach) were plated together on a single, tacky pewter serving dish and brought out separately as if to scream: "Hi, we're your side dishes, and we are a complete afterthought!" Think Swanson's. On a bad day. After scraping as much of the overcooked duck meat off of the bones as I could, I was in no mood for dessert.
The only way I would return is if this place offered "Reverse Corkage", that is, I would order wine from their list, but bring my own food for a $10 charge.
2/5 Anthony’s Star of the Sea
Wine: 2000 Landmark Overlook Chardonnay (375 ml) $24 off list.
Paired with Steamed New Zealand Cockles and Grilled Ciabatta Appetizer and Grilled Baquetta Sea Bass with Wild Mushrooms, White Truffle Risotto and Port Wine Reduction Entrée.
Wine Notes: Thin and acidic for a Landmark. I knew what I was getting into when I ordered it, but it was the only plausible half bottle on the menu. I had purchased a 375ml Patz & Hall the day before to bring with me, but my meeting ran very late, and I didn’t feel like going back to the hotel to retrieve it from the room fridge. A forgettable effort from one of my most dependable wineries. 86 PTS (Note: I had one from my cellar two days later that fared two or three points better. Bottle variation? Or maybe I just wasn’t so tired. By the time I ate at the restaurant, it was 11:30 p.m. East Coast Time, and I was exhausted.)
Overall impression of the restaurant: Very positive experience. As noted above, I didn’t arrive until after 8:00 p.m.. My original reservation was for 6:30. I called twice to bump back the time, and the hostess was as accommodating as could be. When I arrived I was seated immediately, and the manager came by to greet me personally and thank me for “hanging in there” and being courteous enough to call about my delay. Service can really make or break a restaurant, and I thought the service here was terrific.
Both the appetizer and entrée were excellent. I asked my server to help me choose between the Sea Bass and the Grilled Dorado. He enthusiastically recommended the Sea Bass, as it was the “signature dish”. Here we go again, I thought. Unlike the night before, this dish earned the title. Crispy skinned fish that flaked apart, sitting atop a very credible truffle risotto. Good combination of textures and flavors. Knowing that I had to endure coach service on a cross-country flight the next day, I put in for a chocolate soufflé. It arrived steaming hot with Kahlua and chocolate sauces. Decent, but not great.
Wine list was above average, but pricey. All in all, a good meal in an attractive, modern setting overlooking the water. I’m always suspicious of restaurants with views, but this one cares about food and service as well.
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