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winemakers' dinner in Vancouver: Hugel and Jaboulet
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Seaquam 

Barrel Filler
Barrel Filler
Posts: 1141

--
01-28-2003 07:45 AM  
Got back a few minutes ago from a great winemakers' dinner at my favorite Vancouver restaurant, Pastis. Etienne Hugel and Nicolai Jaboulet, of the eponymous wineries, were present and had brought some good juice from their wineries' cellars. The menu was exceptional and particularly well-matched to the wines, with one exception.

After aperitifs of either '01 Hugel Gentil or '01 Gewurtztraminer (I had only the latter; I'll put up tasting notes for all the wines in a couple of days when I get some time and my head clears) we had...

Duck Fois Gras in Verjus and Orange Reduction
'98 Hugel Gewurtztraminer Vendages Tardive
[rich on any night; decadent verging on stupid on a non-holiday Monday]

Seared Arctic Char with Crab Ravioli on Lobster Beurre Blanc
'98 Hugel Riesling Cuvee Jubilee
[wine match of the night for me; delicate but clean acids cutting through delicate-flavored but rich proteins]

Rabbit Saddle filled with Chorizo, Pave of Ratatouille, with Tomato and Black Olive Vinaigrette
'01 Jaboulet Tavel Rose L'Espiegle
[loved the food; where's the Chianti? Wine was out of its league with this course]

Roasted Loin of Veal, Wild Mushroom and Potato Gratin, Syrah and Tarragon Jus
'00 Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets, overshadowed entirely--no surprise--by '91 Jaboulet Cote Rotie Les Jumelles
[veal was perfectly medium-rare and butter tender; succulent mushrooms but potatoes a bit too salty; jus was perfect with the wine; the Cote Rotie wasn't doing the Jalets any favors when they were tasted side-by-side; if the intent was to create interest in the Jalets to promote sales, it wasn't working]

Mango Pannacotta, Biscuit Sable, Home-made Coconut Ice Cream, in Passion Fruit and Pineapple Soup
'99 Jaboulet Muscat de Beaumes-du-Venise
[the ice cream was served with an intense wafer of fresh roasted coconut on top; that was the best part of dessert for me, although the pannacotta looked very tall and impressive; the wine was very ho-hum]

Nice way to start off the week, even though I have to be up in 5 hours. If no one annoys me for the next 4 days I'll have until Friday to recover, and then the cycle begins again...

Life is good.
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