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Carl
 Grape Fermenter Posts:462

 | | 02/09/2004 9:36 PM |
| The following is a resource I put together to help when looking at wines from the M-S-R. The theory is to have a presentation like you normally see in the Cote d'Or, where each village is associated with certain Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, as well as certain producers. In other words, put all the best villages, vineyards and producers on one page and show how they relate.
Village Guide to the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wine Region
Carl McCarthy
Key:
- Villages are generally listed upstream to downstream – basically south to north.
- Notable wineries based in each village are indicated (with the Gault-Millau rating of each, expressed in "*"). “Notable” means either rated *** or higher, well-known in USA, or historically important. The highest rating is *****.
- Hugh Johnson's First Class Vineyards are indicated (with a separate indication if one is a Great First Class vineyard). Taken from the Wine Atlas (5th ed).
- Square brackets indicate producers in a particular vineyard.
- NB: Only villages with first class vineyards and/or notable wineries are included in this list, not all villages.
- Vineyard names are always written “village+er vineyard” (e.g. “Wehlener Sonnenuhr) except if the vineyard is an ortsteil – then the village name is dropped. E.g. the Josephshöfer, not the Graacher Josephshöfer.
=================
Saar
=================
Kanzem
Notable wineries:
Johann Peter Reinert (***)
Von Othegraven (***)
First class vineyards:
Altenberg [Johann Peter Reinert, Bischöfliche Weingüter, Von Othegraven]
Wiltingen
Notable wineries:
Egon Müller-Scharzhof (*****)
Von Volxem (**)
First class vineyards:
Scharzhofberg ortsteil (Great First Class). [Egon Müller, Reichsgraf von Kesselstaat, Von Hövel, Von Volxem, Bischöfliche Weingüter, Vereinigte Hospieten] Klosterberg [Von Volxem, Johann Peter Reinert]
Gottesfuss [Von Volxem]
Braune Kupp [Egon Müller]
Kupp [Vereinigte Hospieten]
Ayl
First class vineyards:
Kupp [Johann Peter Reinert, Bischöfliche Weingüter]
Herrenberger [Bischöfliche Weingüter]
Ockfen
First class vineyards:
Bockstein [Sankt Urbans-Hof, Von Othegraven, Staatliche Weinbaudomane Trier]
Saarburg
Notable wineries:
Geltz-Zilliken (**)
First class vineyards:
Rausch (Geltz-Zilliken)
Serrig
Notable wineries:
Schloss Saarstein (***)
First class vineyards:
Schloss Saarfelser Schlossberg [Vereinigte Hospieten]
Schloss Saarsteiner ortsteil [Schloss Saarstein]
=================
Ruwer
=================
Trier
Notable wineries:
Bischöfliche Weingüter (**)
Vereinigte Hospieten (**)
Staatliche Weinbaudomane Trier/State Wine Domain Trier (no stars)
Trier-Morscheid
Notable wineries:
Reichsgraf von Kesselstaat (***)
Trier-Avelsbachv
First class vineyards:
Altenberg [Bischöfliche Weingüter]
Hammerstein [Staatliche Weinbaudomane Trier]
Trier - Eitelsbach
Notable wineries:
Weingut Karthaüserhof (****)
First class vineyards:
Karthaüserhofberg (Great First Class) [Karthaüserhof]. NB: The estate actually has five named vineyards, Burgberg, Kronenberg, Orthsberg, Sang, and Stirn, but the vineyard names have not been used on labels since 1985.
Mertesdorf
Notable wineries: Von Schubert – Maximin Grünhaus (***)
Von Beulwitz (***)
Karlsmühle (***)
First class vineyards:
Maximin Grünhaus ortsteil – Abtsberg (Great First Class) [Von Schubert]
Maximin Grünhaus ortsteil – Bruderberg [Von Schubert]
Maximin Grünhaus ortsteil – Herrenberg [Von Schubert]
Kasel
Notable wineries:
Classed veinyards:
Nies’chen [Von Beulwitz, Karlsmühle, Von Kesselstaat, Bischöfliche Weingüter]
Kehrnagel [Von Kesselstaat]
=================
Middle Mosel (Ruwer to Zell)
=================
Thörnich
First class vineyards:
Ritsch [Carl Loewen]
Klüsserath
Notable wineries:
Kirsten (***)
First class vineyards:
Bruderschaft [Kirsten]
Leiwen
Notable wineries: Grans-Fassian (****)
Sankt Urbans-Hof (****)
Carl Loewen (***)
Heinz Schmitt (***)
Josef Rosch (***)
First class vineyards:
Laurentiuslay [Grans-Fassian, Sankt Urbans-Hof, Carl Loewen]
Trittenheim
Notable wineries: Clüsserath-Eifel (***)
Clüsserath-Weiler (***)
Franz-Josef Eifel (***)
Milz – Laurentiushof (**)
First class vineyards:
Apotheke [Grans-Fassian, Clüsserath-Eifel, Clüsserath-Weiler, Franz-Josef Eifel]
Lieterchen [Milz – Laurentiushof]
Neumagen
First class vineyards:
Rosengärtchen [Heinz Schmitt]
Drohn
First class vineyards:
Hofberger [Grans-Fassian, Reinhold Haart]
Piesport
Notable wineries:
Reinhold Haart (****)
Kurt Hain (***)
First class vineyards:
Domherr (Great First Class) [Kurt Hain, Reinhold Haart, Von Kesselstaat]
Goldtröpfchen (the part north of village)(Great First Class) [Grans-Fassian, Sankt Urbans-Hof, Kurt Hain, Reinhold Haart, Vereinigte Hospieten, Von Kesselstaat]
Gärtchen
Goldtröpfchen (the part south of village) [Grans-Fassian, Sankt Urbans-Hof, Kurt Hain, Reinhold Haart]
Wintrich
First class vineyards:
Ohligsberg (Great First Class) [Reinhold Haart]
Kesten
Notable wineries:
Paulinshof (***)
First class vineyards:
Paulinshofberg [Kees-Kieren, Paulinshof]
Brauneberg
Notable wineries:
Fritz Haag (*****)
Willi Haag (**)
First class vineyards:
Juffer Sonnenuhr (Great First Class) [Fritz Haag, Schloss Lieser, Max Ferd. Richter, Paulinshof, Von Kesselstaat]
Juffer [Fritz Haag, Max Ferd. Richter, Paulinshof]
Mülheim
Notable wineries:
Max Ferd. Richter (***)
Lieser
Notable wineries:
Schloss Lieser (****)
First class vineyards:
Niderberg-Helden [Schloss Lieser]
Bernkastel
Notable wineries:
Dr. Loosen (*****), Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler und Peter Nicolay (***), Wegeler(***), Dr. F. Weins-Prüm (***), Dr. Thanisch (**)
First class vineyards:
Doctor (Great First Class)[Von Kesselstaat, Wegeler, Dr. Thanisch]
Alte Badstube am Doktorberg [Bergweiler]
Graben [S.A. Prüm, Markus Molitor, Thanisch]
Lay [Dr. Loosen, Joh. Jos. Prüm]
Matheis-Budchen
Braten-Höfchen
Graach
Notable wineries:
Kees-Kieren (***)
Willi Schaefer (***)
First class vineyards:
Domprobst (Great First Class)[F. Weins-Prüm, Kees-Kieren, Willi Schaefer]
Josephshöfer ortsteil [Reichsgraf von Kesselstaat monopole]
Himmelreich [Dr. Loosen, Joh. Jos. Prüm, Selbach-Oseter, Max Ferd. Richter, Wegeler, Kees-Kieren, Willi Schaefer]
Wehlen
Notable wineries: Joh. Jos. Prüm (*****)
Markus Molitor (****)
Dr. F. Wein-Prüms (***)
S.A. Prüm (**)
First class vineyards:
Sonnenuhr (Great First Class)[Joh. Jos. Prüm, S.A. Prüm, Dr. Loosen, Max Ferd. Richter, Wegeler, F. Weins-Prüm, Willi Schaefer, Von Kesselstaat, Meulenhof]
Klosterberg [Markus Molitor]
Zeltingen
Notable wineries:
Selbach-Oster (****)
First class vineyards:
Sonnenuhr [Markus Molitor, Selbach-Oster, Joh. Jos. Prüm]
Ürzig
Notable wineries:
Mönchhof - Robert Eymael (***)
Alfred Merkelbach (**)
First class vineyards:
Würzgarten (Great First Class)(the part north of village)[Christoffel, Dr. Loosen, Burgweiler, F. Weins-Prüm, Mönchhof-Robert Eymael, Merkelbac]
Würzgarten (the part south of village)
Erden
Notable wineries:
Joh. Jos. Christoffel (****)
Meulenhof (**)
First class vineyards:
Prälat (Great First Class)[Dr. Loosen, F. Weins-Prüm, Mönchhof-Robert Eymael, Meulenhof, Bischöfliche Weingüter]
Treppchen (west side)(Great First Class) [Christoffel, Bergweiler, Kees-Kieren, Mönchhof-Robert Eymael, Meulenhof, Merkelbac]
Treppchen (east side)
Wolf
First class vineyards:
Goldgrube [Vollenweider]
Traben-Trarbach
Notable wineries:
Vollenweider (***)
First class vineyards:
Ungsberg [Max Ferd. Richter]
Enkirch
Notable wineries:
Carl August Immich – Batterieberg (***)
First class vineyards:
Batterieberg [Carl August Immich]
Zeppwingert
=================
Lower Mosel (Zell to Koblenz)
=================
Pünderich
Notable wineries:
Clemens Busch (**)
First class vineyards:
Marienberg [Clemens Busch]
Neef
First class vineyards:
Fauenberg
Bremm
First class vineyards:
Calmont
Gondorf
First class vineyards:
Gäns
Winningen
Notable wineries:
Heymann-Löwenstein (****)
Reinhard und Beate Knebel (****)
First class vineyards:
Uhlen (Great First Class)[Heymann-Löwenstein, Knebel]
Röttgen [Heymann-Löwenstein, Knebel]
| | | |
| GATC
 Barrel Sampler Posts:2420

 | | 02/09/2004 11:49 PM |
| Of the estates that I have has some experience with, I generally agree with the Gault-Millau ratings but I do think the following wineries are underrated:
Joh. Jos. Christoffel (****) Willi Schaefer (***) Von Schubert – Maximin Grünhaus (***) Karlsmühle (***) Mönchhof - Robert Eymael (***)
In good years, I buy the following Mosels:
Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Christoffel Erdener Treppchen J. J., Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Monchhoff Urziger Wurzgarten
These along with Donnhoff (Nahe), Leitz (Rheingau) and Darting (Pfalz) generally make up 80%-90% of my Riesling purchases.
I generally buy spatlesen and auslesen. In years like 2001 (where the wines are declassified) I will also buy Kabinetts (which are spatlesen parading as Kabinetts). | | | |
| Carl
 Grape Fermenter Posts:462

 | | 02/10/2004 7:38 AM |
| GATC, do you think you can differentiate between wines made from vineyard sites? If so, what are the characteristics? I think the only one I could pick out of a lineup of good Spätlesen would be the Üurziger Würzgarten...the spice (clove, corriander, cinnamon?) is unqiue. Pinning down the typical flavor characteristics of each vineyard and/or village would be my next step in the foregoing list.
For what it is worth, the Hugh Johnson pocket wine guide and/or Atlas has the following brief descriptions, but I am not sure I have drunk enough wines to be able to taste them:
- Trier-Avelsbach village: "At (rare) best, lovely, delicate wines...perfumed."
- Piesporter Goldtröpfchen: "famous for honeyed wines with magical fragrence and breadth, which, thanks to the deep clay-like slate here, exude almost baroque aromas."
- Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr: "100 years ago reckoned to be the greatest wine of the Mosel, perfectly satisfying the taste for wine that was full bodied and golden."
- Bernkastel village: "The trademark of Bernkastel is a touch of flint."
- Wehlen villiage: "grown on shallow, stony slate --rich and filigree."
- Graach village: "grown on deeper, heavier slate --a more earthy, mineral distinction."
- Erdener Prälat: "probably the warmest vineyard in the entire Mosel valley."
- Erdener Treppchen: "more austere."
| | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Puncher Posts:986

 | | 02/10/2004 12:20 PM |
| There's lots of ground to cover here. I have not made an exhaustive review of the list but there are a few omissions that popped out at me:
Kesselstatt - owns land in the Bernkasteler Doctor now Willi Schaefer - owns land in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst & Himmelreich J. J. Prum - owns some of the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr (and a few other things)
The subjective ratings are all over the map. I can't believe *** for Grunhaus. Yikes! 1999 and 2000 were not great years for the estate, but 2001 is vastly underrated. The wines need time, lots of it, and do not show well young. (Heck my '88 Herrenberg Auslese is still too young.) The only Grunhaus I ever drink before its 10th birthday is the QbA. Even the kabinetten need years of age.
Now on to your vineyard question. I have learned to pick up on a few of them.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr - lemon and vanilla cream augment the usual apple/slate Mosel profile Erdener Treppchen - great depth and most importantly breadth of minerals dominate this site for me Piesporter Goldtropfchen - the most peachy of all Mosels in my opinion - also some red fruit Urziger Wurzgarten - as you say, the spice gives it away, also strawberry flavors
Again there's much more to this discussion. There are some producers that are missing in my opinion. Hoffmann-Simon (perhaps not classified, but I think they are) is doing some really good things in the Piesporter Goldtropfchen, as well as in the Kowericher Laurentiuslay. I did not see Merkelbach or Meulenhof on the list anywhere. They both make very nice wines that are also fantastic values.
I would love to write a whole book on the subject some day, but only about 100 people would buy it.  | | | |
| Carl
 Grape Fermenter Posts:462

 | | 02/10/2004 2:48 PM |
| Quote:
I would love to write a whole book on the subject some day, but only about 100 people would buy it.
Maybe you can fill it with beautiful photos of the Mosel and recipes of local French-German dishes, and make it a high end coffee table book - sort of in the food travel category. That seems to be how Bordeaux: People, Power and Politics was published - it is actually a fairly technical book on the structure of the high end bordeaux market disguised as a coffee table book so more people buy it.
As for my list itself- thanks for pointing out the omissions of Meulenhof and other wineries - I will add them; also some of the vineyards you mentioned where wineries source their grapes (e.g. Kesselstaat in the Doctor). Making the list involved time consuming internet research, especially when tying vineyards to producers; basically I entered the name of each vineyard and just looked at whose wines appeared. I am sure people will still find a few typos and errors yet.
As for the Gault-Millau rankings, they are mainly just an indication of relative reputation. I used it for lack of anything better. I think they have to constantly demote or promote wineries to keep it interesting, which might explain why the Grünhaus guys currently have only three stars. They seem to be especially harsh on old established wineries that may have been coasting for too long on their reputations. | | | |
| ormbee
 Barrel Sampler Posts:2397


 | | 02/10/2004 3:06 PM |
| thanks for putting this together. right to the printer for this one.
 | | | |
| Carl
 Grape Fermenter Posts:462

 | | 02/10/2004 3:29 PM |
| Quote:
Thanks for putting this together. right to the printer for this one.
You're welcome. It is something I had long been looking for, but it did not seem to exist. I actually learned a lot by doing it. I never heard of half of these wineries or vineyards.
You might also want to wait for the edits...I will do them once the Gault-Millau online site comes back up. It is at www.gaultmillau.de/weinguide-d/ but seems to be down right now.
Unfortunately, it is only in German... | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Puncher Posts:986

 | | 02/10/2004 4:50 PM |
| I will have to print this out. I would be happy to collaborate with you on an expansion of this text to include more exhaustive listings of producers and vineyard holdings. I think there is also a need to understand in the case of sites like Bernkasteler Badstube (the Grosslage) the parcels owned by producers such as Prum and Selbach-Oster, and what einzellage they are located in.
There's so much to learn and know. Vintage is another important consideration. The general "Germany" on most vintage charts does a great disservice to the consumer, as (in the case of '97) there can be major highs and lows among the six major (leaving out Franken for the purposes of this discussion) regions.
A prime example is 1997, which was fantastic in the middle-Mosel, and under-recognized due to some issues in other parts of Germany. The '97 are truly beautiful right now. This also points out the falsehood that great wines have to age. The '97s have always been pretty, and only took 7 years to become beautiful. (I wish I had bought more...) | | | |
| ormbee
 Barrel Sampler Posts:2397


 | | 02/10/2004 5:45 PM |
| | I will keep posted. German wines are a real exciting learning area for me right now, especially since Mrs. Ormbee loves them, and allows a blank checkbook for them. | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Puncher Posts:986

 | | 02/10/2004 6:24 PM |
| Quote:
I will keep posted. German wines are a real exciting learning area for me right now, especially since Mrs. Ormbee loves them, and allows a blank checkbook for them.
Mrs. Ormbee must be related to Mrs. Rieslingfan. | | | |
| jaimetown DC area
 Wine Bottler Posts:3370


 | | 02/10/2004 6:32 PM |
| Quote:
In good years, I buy the following Mosels:
Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Christoffel Erdener Treppchen J. J., Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Monchhoff Urziger Wurzgarten
These along with Donnhoff (Nahe), Leitz (Rheingau) and Darting (Pfalz) generally make up 80%-90% of my Riesling purchases.
I generally buy spatlesen and auslesen. In years like 2001 (where the wines are declassified) I will also buy Kabinetts (which are spatlesen parading as Kabinetts).
What about the 2002 Kabinetts for the above? Are they worth purchasing? How long can I expect to hold 'em? Thanks for the info, everyone - this is very good information and a valuable contribution to the forum. | | | |
| Carl
 Grape Fermenter Posts:462

 | | 02/10/2004 7:33 PM |
| | Rieslingfan, I would be happy to collaborate to try to produce something more elaborate. I just sent you an email to the address you have listed in your Squires profile. | | | |
| DJ Hombre Napa Valley, California
 Barrel Filler Posts:1355

 | | 02/10/2004 8:14 PM |
| Jamietown,
I've had quite a few of those `02 Kabinetts. They're really good. | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Puncher Posts:986

 | | 02/11/2004 1:54 AM |
| I would not hesitate to buy kabinett from those producers in '02. It's an excellent vintage. (I will say I found some bitter notes in the Selbach-Oster wines, but many folks like that.)
You can safely age kabinett for 10 years in a good cellar. Bear in mind they will be very different (smoky notes, less forward fruit...) after that time, but still delicious.
The '02 Donnhoff Leistenberg Kabinett is one of my favorite wine of the vintage. Rheinhold Haart had a fantastic '02, but I did not get to taste the kabinett. I still would give it the benefit of the doubt because there is very little doubt about any wine made by the steady hand of Theo Haart (winemaker at Rheinhold Haart). While I did not taste it, David Schildknecht has lavished high praise on the Fritz Haag Brauenberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Kabinett, so I would buy with impunity (if I could find it). I've tasted the Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten & like it, but I don't like the fake cork. Screwcaps or bust say I.
Cheers! David | | | |
| jaimetown DC area
 Wine Bottler Posts:3370


 | | 02/11/2004 3:26 PM |
| Thanks for the endorsement - I'm gonna place an order for some of these wines today. | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Destemmer Posts:96

 | | 02/18/2004 4:55 AM |
| David,
Have you had the 2002 Fritz Haag Brauenberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese? I have not had the kabinett but loved the spatlese. I have not seen the kabinett around either but know DVW has the Fritz Haag Brauenberger Juffer Kabinett yet.
Jay. | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Puncher Posts:986

 | | 02/18/2004 11:45 AM |
| | I have indeed had the Haag Spatlese (or at least one of them...there are frequently multiple obttlings a la J. J. Prum). It's a wonderful wine. I would have bought some but I'm on the proverbial wine probation. | | | |
| Jeremy Matthew
 Barrel Sampler Posts:2067

 | | 02/18/2004 10:51 PM |
| | Thanks again CB!!! | | | |
| ormbee
 Barrel Sampler Posts:2397


 | | 02/18/2004 11:48 PM |
| Quote:
Thanks again CB!!!
Indeed, thanks!!! | | | |
| Carl
 Grape Fermenter Posts:462

 | | 02/23/2004 7:44 PM |
| David Schildknecht's list:
1959 1971 1975 1976* 1983* 1989* 1990 1997* 1999*
* denotes vintages which are not great (perhaps only very good; or perhaps memorable but downright extreme) for German riesling in general, but are standouts specifically on the Saar. | | | |
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