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Subject: Village Guide to Nahe (long)
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CarlUser is Offline
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02/14/2004 4:37 PM  
Yet another guide. I have put these together mainly for my own understanding of each region, using existing resources (mainly the Johnson wine atlas and the Gault-Millau Weinguide Deutschland). I don't claim to be a total expert, so please point out any mistakes if you find them.

Nahe village guide
Carl McCarthy

Overview
a. The Nahe River flows north into the Rhine at Bingen, a medieval town situated across the Rhein from Rüdesheim, the Rheingau’s principal town. Hugh Johnson summarizes the wine of Nahe as “very clean and grapey…at the same time it has some of the full flavour that…at its best evokes the alchemist’s shop, as though rare minerals were dissolved in it, possibly gold itself.”

b. The Nahe wine region is more difficult to describe than the Rheingau or the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer because its vineyards are also scattered across numerous small tributaries of the Nahe: the Guldenbach, the Gräfenbach, the Ellerbach, the Güalsbach and the Alsenz, to name only the main ones! The total land cultivated with vines, 4,297 hectacres, is not that dissimilar to the Rheingau’s cultivation of 3,193 hectacres, but the Nahe vineyards are spread over a larger area. (By way of comparison, the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer has 9,828 hectactres of vines under cultivation and the gigantic Pflaz and Rheinhessen wine regions have approximately 23,000 and 26,000 hectacres of wine cultivation respectively.)

Essentially, the region can be divided into three parts: (1) upstream from Bingen on the Rhine to the Nahe’s principal town of Bad Kreuznach (the “Lower Nahe”); (2) the Nahe tributaries that flow south into the Nahe at or below Bad Kreuznach (“Nahe Tributaries”); and (3) the rest of the Nahe from Bed Kreuznach upstream to Monzingen (“Middle and Upper Nahe”). This third part includes the Nahe’s most famous vineyard, the Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle.

c This guide is more provisional than the others. The First Class vineyards are from the Hugh Johnson Wine Atlas (5th ed.), and reflect work done with Stuart Pigott. However, only the stretch from Winzenheim to Schlossböckelheim is mapped in the Atlas in detail. It lists the other villages that have first class vineyard or vineyards, but do not name them. For those villages, I deduced what the best vineyards are by prices and other indicators. However, if you want to be more certain about First Class vineyards, consult Stuart Pigott’s “Atlas der deutschen Weine” (1995) which apparently maps the entire Nahe and includes the first class vineyards in all villages.

Pigott’s and Johnson’s classification is based largely on a 1901 tax assessment of vineyards by the Prussian government in Berlin. Therefore, some of the vineyards which were important then, and “first class” in this guide, do not seem to be used by noteworthy wineries these days. I tried without success to get a copy of the 1901 classification.

d. Normal German labelling rules seem to break down a little here; for example, it is the “Burg Leyer Schlossberg” rather than the “Burg Leyener Schlossberg”; the “Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle” rather than the “Niederhausener Hermannshöhle” – in other words, village names are sometimes truncated a bit, instead of just adding “-er”.

e. Generally, winery names have mattered more than vineyard names in the Nahe. Two producers stand head and shoulders above the others: Dönnhoff and Emlich-Schönleber. Prices for Dönnhoff’s wines are consistently among the highest for any German wines.

Key:
The key is the same as the M-S-R guide and Rheingau guide. This guide is downstream to upstream, however.

1. Lower Nahe

Münster-Sarmsheim

Notable wineries:
Göttelmann (***)
Kruger-Rumpf (***)

First class vineyards:
Pittersburg [Kruger-Rumpf, Göttelmann]
Rheinberg [Kruger-Rumpf, Göttelmann]
Dautenpflänzer [Kruger-Rumpf, Göttelmann]

Burg Layen

Notable wineries:
Schlossgut Diel (0 stars but „recommended“ [the lowest Gault-Millau category before exclusion])

First class vineyards:
Schlossberg

Dorsheim

First class vineyards:
Goldloch [Schlossgut Diel, Kruger-Rumpf]
Burgberg [Schlossgut Diel, Kruger-Rumpf]
Pittermännchen [Schlossgut Diel]

Laubenheim

First class vineyards:
St. Remigiusberg [Tesch]
Karthäuser [Tesch]

Langenlonsheim

Notable wineries:
Tesch (***)

First class vineyards:
Königsschild [Tesch]
Löhrer Berg [Tesch]

Bretzenheim

First class vineyards:
Vogelsang

Winzenheim

First class vineyards:
Rosenheck


(2) Nahe Tributaries

Windesheim
(On the Guldenbach)

First class vineyards:
Schlosskapelle

Guldental
(On the Guldenbach)

First class vineyards:
Hipperich

Wallhausen
(On the Gräfenbach)

Notable wineries:
Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg Schloss Wallhausen (***)

First class vineyards:
Johannisberg [Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg]
Felseneck [Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg]

Roxheim
(On a tributary of the Ellerbach)

Notable wineries:
Schäfer-Fröhlich (up the Ellerbach in Bockenau)

First class vineyards:
Berg [Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg]

(3) Middle and Upper Nahe

Bad Kreuznach

Notable wineries:
Korrell-Johanneshof (***)
Staatsweingut Bad Kreuznach (**)
Anton Finkenauer (*)

First class vineyards:
Kahlenberg [Staatsweingut, Anton Finkenauer]
Brückes [Anton Finkenauer]
Krötenpfuhl

Bad Münster

Notable wineries:
Rapp (*)

First class vineyards:
Felseneck

Altenbaumberg
(on the Alsenz)

First class vineyards:
Rotenberg [Rapp]

Traisen

Notable wineries:
Dr. Crusius (***)

First class vineyards:
Bastei [Crusius, Gutsverwaltung N-S]
Rotenfels [Crusius]

Norheim

First class vineyards:
Kirschheck [Crusius, Jakob Schneider]
Dellchen [Jakob Schneider]
Kafels [Staatsweingut]

Niederhausen

Notable wineries:
Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen-Schlossböckelheim (***)
Jakob Schneider (**)
Mathern (**)

First class vineyards:
Hermannshöhle (Great First Class) [Dönnhoff, Gutsverwaltung N-S]
Felsensteyer [Crusius]
Rosenheck [Mathern]
Kertz [Mathern]
Klamm [Jakob Schneider]
Hermannsberg [Gutsverwaltung N-S]

Oberhausen

Notable wineries:
Hermann Dönnhoff (*****)

First class vineyards:
Oberhäuser Brücke [Dönnhoff]

Schlossböckelheim
Note: this is the last village of what I call the Middle Nahe.

First class vineyards:
Kupfergrube [Dönnhoff, Gutsverwaltung N-S]
Felsenberg [Dönnhoff, Tesch, Crusius, Gutsverwaltung N-S]
Königsfels [Karl-Kurt Bamberger]

Monzingen

Note: This is really the only village of note in what I call the Upper Nahe – it stands by itself among other lesser villages. It actually sits about a kilometre above the Nahe on the Gaülsbach.

Notable wineries:
Emlich-Schönleber (*****)
Hexamer (***)(nearby in Meddersheim)
Karl-Kurt Bamberger & Sohn (**)(nearby in Meddersheim)

First class vineyards:
Halenberg [Emlich-Schönleber, Tesch]
Frühlingsplätzchen [Emlich-Schönleber, Tesch]
ormbeeUser is Offline
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02/14/2004 4:39 PM  
I ask, and I recieve.

Thanks again. You rock
CarlUser is Offline
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02/14/2004 4:41 PM  
The Pfalz is really big and confusing. I figured if somebody actually asked for the Nahe, I'd do that first.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/16/2004 5:27 PM  
Obviously not from cb's source, but Hexamer's two main sites (Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg and Sobernheimer Marbach) both produce some very fine wines. Hexamer is a winery to watch.

Diel has the low/no ranking because Armin Diel is one of the principals in the Gault Millau guide. He is trying to maintain some level of credibility. Diel is actually very highly thought of, though I can't understand why. I personally hate the wines. Same goes for Tesch. I have not yet had one wine I have liked from either one of them.

Lots of good info here.
ormbeeUser is Offline
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02/16/2004 5:37 PM  
I actually had a Diel recently that I enjoyed quite a bit, but I'll be careful about them. Thanks for the advice.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/16/2004 5:46 PM  
Quote:

I actually had a Diel recently that I enjoyed quite a bit, but I'll be careful about them. Thanks for the advice.



My problem with them is somewhat personal. I should have made that clear. I find an odd, earthy note in all of htem that I do not like. If you like one or two Diel wines, the chances are you will like many of them. He's very consistent.
ormbeeUser is Offline
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02/16/2004 6:04 PM  
Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I don't remember getting an earthy note for them, so I may be lucky

CarlUser is Offline
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02/16/2004 8:15 PM  
Palates differ as well. (I've never tried any of Diel's wines but have been meaning to -- to my mind they rank third in prestige in the Nahe, after Donnhoff and Emrich-Schönleber;but I'm just talking reputation not necessary quality per se.)
Jeremy MatthewUser is Offline
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02/16/2004 10:23 PM  
Cheers again for the info CBmac!!
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 12:13 PM  
Quick update on a couple of things:

Donnhoff also has holdings in the Norheimer Kirscheck and Norheimer Dellchen.

While almost totally overlooked, the Oberhauser Leistenberg is the site of some mighty fine Donnhoff kabinetten over the last decade or so. He also made a fantastic auslese from this site in 2001.

For anyone who is interested, the Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube is planted on the site of an abandoned copper mine (hence the name). It was originally planted in the 20s/30s and has since been at least partially replanted, as Donnhoff's vines on the site are only about 15-20 years old.

I have a photo from my trip last September that shows many of the great sites and how close they are. If I knew how to upload a photo to this site I would add it to the thread, as it really says something about terroir. (Anybody have a location I could upload to??)
CarlUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 2:41 PM  
You can upload it to my (disused) blog website if you want.www.timeghost.org

I'll send you an email with FTP instructions.
CarlUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 2:44 PM  
By the way, is it Kabinetten or Kabinetts? I always thought whereas one says Spätlesen and Auslesen, words that are not German in origin (like Kabinett/Cabinet) get the "s" for plural.

But maybe both are right...
MarcelUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 3:24 PM  
Neither! The plural for Kabinett is Kabinette...

Some words not of German origin do have plurals other than "s", like Etage (floor), Etagen...

You know, it's German. It shouldn't make sense!
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 4:53 PM  
Here's the photo with some of the vineyards labelled. The town on the left side of the picture is Oberhausen.
CarlUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 5:10 PM  
For those of you who can't see the picture directly in the thread (I can't) it is at
www.timeghost.co.uk/Vineyards.jpg

Very nice! It is one thing to look at contour lines in an atlas, it is another thing to see really how steep these slopes are. Those two hills (behind the Kupfergrube and above the Hermannshöhle) are at just over 300 meters above sea level, whereas the Nahe flows by at 118 meters --- that's quite a difference, but until you see a picture you don't really appreciate it.

Also, Rieslingfan, thanks for pointing out "Donnhoff also has holdings in the Norheimer Kirscheck and Norheimer Dellchen." --- I tried to go back and add them to the first post, but it won't let me. I should have remembered...you even posted aTN on the 2002 Norheimer Dellchen Spätlese.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/17/2004 5:36 PM  
The real shocker for me is the total difference in soils between the various sites. The Brucke is dramatically different depending on what part of it you are in & none of it is like the Felsenberg. I picked up a rock in the Felsenberg & it's a dark brown and reddish volcanic rock, where there is slate in the Brucke (in some places). The Kupfergrube is volcanic as well, where the Hermannshohle is another mish-mash.

Then line up the four wines from Donnhoff (spatlese from all four sites) and they are totally different. All within easy walking distance.
CarlUser is Offline
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02/27/2004 7:40 AM  
Wine Advocate came out with ratings for Dönnhoff's 2002 lineup. They are off the charts. In many cases the scores are better than 2001.

Eiswein Oberhauser Brucke 100

Auslese Oberhauser Brucke 97
Auslese Niederhauser Hamannshohle 94

Spätlese Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube 97+
Spätlese Oberhauser Brucke 97
Spätlese Norheimer Dellchen 97
Spätlese Niederhauser Hermannshohle 96
Spätlese Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg 95
Spätlese Norheimer Kirschheck 92+

Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg 92+
Kabinett Norheimer Dellchen 90

QbA 89
Joseph BembryUser is Offline
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02/27/2004 11:51 AM  
I didn't try any of Hermann's '01's, but I gotta agree with Rovani on most of these wines. I've tried probably half of the ones he rated and they are outstanding across the board. Worth the extra $, IMO. Can't believe I actaully agree with Rovani, as his Burgundy scores usually leave me scratching my head.

jb
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/29/2004 7:54 PM  
As for the Donnhoff '02s, I will only quibble about a couple of points. I personally think (after multiple tastings of all of the spatlesen) that the Hermannshohle and Felsenberg are the two best wines, with the Kupfergrube, Dellchen and Brucke just a tick below. The Kirscheck is fantastic too, but can't keep up in that company.

I thought Pierre's comment about the auslesen being like BA was accurate and simultaneously misleading. Donnhoff's "regular" auslesen are always some of the most elegant but also complex and persistent wines in the market. Their elegance makes them very un-BA, but the complexity and depth is right up BA alley.
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