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Jeremy Matthew
Barrel Sampler
Posts:2067
 | | 04/24/2003 8:33 AM |
| Even the multitudes of sav blanc producers in NZ are dwarfed by the Charodnnay producers of NZ , in contrast Pinot Gris sits at the other end of the spectrum siting at a similar position as Gewurzt in terms of plantings.
I've included these two varietals together because the enviroment for producing good Chardonnay is oftent he enviroment that Pinot Gris also flourishes in.
So starting at the Northern end of the North Island of NZ we see a great contrast and diversity of both varietals.
In the upper Nothland little pinot gris is planted but many chardonnays are produced. Northland is temperamental with regard to weather and botrytis is the common problem, however when the climate works stunning powerful chardonnay can be produced.
In Northland the use of new American and French Oak over mixted age oak dominates creating styles dominated by sweeter vanilla characters. Full malo-lactic fermentation and lees stirring is also the norm often with long periods of lees contact.
Why this preferance for heavy oak and malo-lactic fermentation? Because the fruit produced during ripe vintage is very high in sugar. 29-30 degree brix isn't uncommon and the only way to harness this power is through carefull balancing of oak and acids with the ripe sugars of such fruit.
Although Chardonnay is produced through out Northland the majority is flabby and dominated by oak (as mentioned above) and suffers botrytis infection ,however there is one producer of note.
Okahu Estate at the bottom of Ninety Mile beach is an excellent producer of nto just charodnnay but also reds. Their chardonnay however is wonderful, rich and creamy. The Cliffton estate chardonnay has won awards and praise from many , and considering its $8 USD price is well worth the investement.
As you head down the coast you encounter another wine making region called Matakana. This region barely existed ten years ago with only two producers specialising in red, now there are some ten producers with several standouts from the ordinary bunch.
Both pinot gris and chardonnay are produced in quantity in Matakana and both are fighting for top place of whites in the region.
The pinot gris looks like it could be top dog with excellent examples being produced by nearly all wineries. From strong apricot and nutty styles through to austere minerally driven examples they are all available and produced in quantity. IN NZ's last Cuisine write up of Pinot Gris, Matakana vineyards held six out of the top twenty. Considering the limited number of vineyards in the region this is impressive.
They mostly use aged oak then blending with stainless steel examples produces complex defined pinot gris with lush power and elegance. In other words they are very balanced wines witht he ability to age for a short period (say three to five years for optimal drinking.)
My favourite pinot gris from the region are Matakana Estate and Brick Bay Vineyards. Ransom also produces a stunner but is almost impossible to find with cellar door sales consuming their entire yearly production. All of these examples use mixed age French oak and reasonable amount of lees contact to produce heavier more "imprinted and honest" examples of the variety.
In chardonnay, Matakana suffers similar problems as their associates further north. Rainfall at the wrong time affects chardonnay more so than pinot gris and this is evident in most wines I have tried form the region particularly those of Hyperion and Ascension vineyard who have chardonnay vineyards established inthe valley suroounding the township. However the estates with vineyards situated on the hillsides have little problem and produce very lush powerful styles. french oak and small amounts of lees contact seem to be the preferance.
Both Mahurangi and Matakana Estates produce wines of merit in my opinion with a definate chedar and peach note being evident in the regions wines. Both of these vineyards capture this unique terroir and increase the complexity of the wine without handling the balance clumsily. The result is often excellent new world wine with elegance and depth.
Further south agian we come to Kumeu and Henderson. Home to some of NZ's original vineyards and producers including Corbans, Babich, Matua, Pleasant Valley, Lincoln, Collards and several other smaller producers. Most of these vineyards source their fruit from elsewhere now, but those that have remianed loyal to the region have done so for a number of reasons.
Those that have (Kumeu River) for example recognise the similarity to Burgundy in both climate and soil. The problem much like Burgundy is that the climate has an adverse affect with its inconsistancy.
Michael Brajkovich combated this by selecting specific sites then utilising nets to allow the ripest berries to be picked (previously the birds used to get to them eating the ripest first!). This in turn has allowed hime to produce wines of world class style comparative to those of the best Burgundies.
The terroir of Kumeu in particular and less so Henderson is a remarkable truffled and vanilla note that permuiates its way through nearly all wines.
Consequently the chardonnays of the region often contain truffled and vanilla notes (irrelevant of what oak was used!!) but also pick up tropical flavours like pineapple and mango.
Favourites of the region include Kuemeu River's Mates Vineyuard Chardonnay, Kerr Farm Limited Release Chardonnay, Collards Rothesay Vineyard Chardonnay when it was sourced from henderson- now it is sourced from Hawkes Bay.
The Pinot Gris in the region is limited but that which is proiduced is stunning. Kumeu River Pinot Gris has gone from strength to strength and leans towards tropical more fruit driven styles than the examples in Matakana. Oak is used sparringly to soften the heavy malic acides that can occur in a region that suffers from a hard time ripening its grapes. Presently this is the only Pinot Gris of Kumeu or Henderson I would recommend.
Auckland and Waiheke are probably about as much a contrast as one can get in the wine world. Auckland is home to NZ's largest winiries, Montana and Villa Maria, Waiheke is home to NZ's smallest wineries.
Both Montana and Villa Maria source their grapes form elsewhere with Villa Maria maintaing a small vineayrd of Pinotage for prosperity's sake.
Waiheke in contrast is all about vineyards. The many estates based there have often downsized their facilities for tasting and restuarants for one reason- every scrape of land is too valuable to not have vines upon it. Waihekes unique character is that it maintains a temperature of over three degrees hotter than Auckalnd and thus maintains a higher level of sunshine and dryness than most other regions within NZ. This allows many varietie's particularly reds to reach fuller ripeness than they normally do on the mainland.
Only one vineyard presently produces charodnnay but several others have plantings waiting to comeinto production.
That vineyard -Goldwater, produces powerhouse chardonnay with big oak and ripe fruit. I've always found it too overpowering lacking balance of structure and being a little to chewy with the oak- but for big chardonnay lovers this wine will be your Casanova/ Aphrodite.
I feel that Goldwater's style will be the typical style of Waiheke as they have been the pioneers of red on the Island and were the first to give whites a go. Couple this with the super ripe fruit gauranteed ont he island and the fact that botrytis just can't affect the island the recipe for powerhouse chardonnay is set.
Next time Waikato/Bay of Plenty and Gisborne!! 
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