2001 GAJA. Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy. 13.5% alcohol. $176.
GAJA, justly the most famous name in Piedmont, can almost always be counted on to produce some of the top wines of any vintage. Regardless, the winery can always be relied on to produce the most expensive wines in the region. Still its name on the bottle is as close to a guarantee of quality as any in winedom and despite their high initial prices the wines have historically shown excellent price appreciation over time.

Further enhancing the winery’s reputation for quality is Angelo Gaja’s decision to declassify his 2002s. His willingness to not trade on the winery’s name in a weak vintage (world wide demand for GAJA wines is such that they easily could have sold out their wines even in a vintage such as 2002) is commendable.

GAJA’s base level Barbaresco (technically his only Barbaresco since from 1996 on the Barbaresco crus, Costa Russi, Sori San Lorenzo, and Sori Tildin, have only been allowed to be designated as Langhe Nebbiolo DOC due to Angelo Gaja’s decision to incorporate small amounts of Barbera into the crus’ blends) is sourced from 14 separate estate-owned vineyards located in Barbaresco and Treiso. The wine is aged for one year in barrique (French oak) and one year in large oak casks. In years past this wine could be considered a relative value compared to other wines in GAJA’s portfolio especially the crus. However at its current pricing level I see no reason to purchase it – better to either dig deeper and buy one of the crus or skip GAJA entirely.

The 2001 has a translucent light to medium ruby hue with thin ever so slightly pigmented legs. A very aromatic and flashy nose of pure cherry, vanilla, mint, sweet oak, and a bit of earth. Gossamer elegance in the mouth with good acidity and apparently light tannin. Surprisingly approachable, drink now (2009) to 2015+. 90 points.