I had been underwhelmed by this wine in the past, so last night's tasting was a good opportunity to reassess. The wine was served double blind, but it was obviously a Mosel Riesling. Crystalline purity in the glass, the aromatics gave it away as Ürziger Würzgarten, with just a touch of berries floating over apple, mineral and brown spices. The flavors also pointed to the Würzgarten, with pronounced spiciness on the finish. Acids and concentration didn't seem quite on track for an '01 (a touch lighter on the extract and more forward acids - not to mention an '01 would have been closed down hard). Significant CO2 and a slight creaminess pointed me in the Christoffel direction, though my guess was 2002 J. J. Christoffel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese. (Ah well, it legally is an auslese.)

This is all very technical, and does represent my thought process in guessing the wine, but what it misses is the unmistakeable soul of vineyard and producer. The wine is relatively easy to guess blind because it is distinctive and representative at the same time. It is truly a wine of terroir, made by a man (with some help these days) who is dedicated to a grape and a site. Here's to Hans-Leo Christoffel. Let us hope he is not one of the last of his breed.

And on final reassesment, the 2002 J. J. Christoffel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese is a truly wonderful wine that follows the 2001 but does not stand in its shadow.

Rf, I know you have a lot more experience with recent vintages of German Rieslings, but from the few 2002s I've had, I find the 2001s to be clearly better.

I don't find '02 to be a superior vintage to '01 overall, but there are wines that can hold their head high against the older vintage. This is one of them.

Of course I have not been (ultimately) disappointed in the Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese since, well...I've never been disappointed. This wine always has something to say. I will note that the '01 and '02 have ramped up both the CO2 and the creaminess factor. It's certainly a change of style from '95-'00.

Judging all German wine by '01 is like judging all Cal Cab by '94. We're probably better off using a "normal" vintage (e.g. '96 in Cal or '98 in Germany) as the yardstick & appreciating the ups and downs of the various vintages. To set '01 as the standard that all MUST live up to is to set the bar for failure, and thus miss a million wonderful things that each vintage has to say.

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Judging all German wine by '01 is like judging all Cal Cab by '94. We're probably better off using a "normal" vintage (e.g. '96 in Cal or '98 in Germany) as the yardstick & appreciating the ups and downs of the various vintages. To set '01 as the standard that all MUST live up to is to set the bar for failure, and thus miss a million wonderful things that each vintage has to say.

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That is a very good point, RF. It goes for other varitals and regions as well. To poo-poo all wines from a vintage that is not as special as a benchmark vintage, is to miss a lot of good stuff. Not to mention an opportunity to learn.

jb

It may apply to many other varietals and regions, but for me, not for Burgundy. Burgundy produces an enormous amount of mediocre wine in all but the best years.

Since we have switched this conversation towards Burgundy, I can tell you that from the tastings I have done, the 2001 vintage is better than the professionals give it credit and the 2002 is not going to be as great as is being hailed. I haven't had a ton of reds yet (although I will taste thru the Daniel Rion '02's on Thurs) but I have yet to been wowed by a white from '02 yet. And I have had quite a few.

jb

I'd never open a potentially great Burgundy this young. On the few occasions I did in the past, I could tell almost nothing about the wine. Ask mletson about the '99 Clos Vougeot from Girardin we tasted almsot two years ago. I know many of you are expert at evaluating these wines, but I'm not, as I suspect many of you are overestimating your abilities. I know I'm beating a dead horse, but I've witnessed many vintages where Parker praised young Burgundies, only to later revise his scores markedly lower.

True, Parker has revised his scores. Unfortunately he (or his minion) tastes the wines as infants, gives them scores & then revises downwards when they are troubled adolescents.

I can't tell much from really young Burgundy either, but to drink them at age 3 or 4 is potentially even worse IMO.

Board-O, if that is the case, what is the point of ever opening a Burgundy before it's 10th birthday? What would be the point of ever reading a Parker review on a Burg? Burgundy is more variable than most wines. That much is true. But you certainly can tell if a wine is enjoyable in its infancy. You can tell if it is radically out of balance. You may not be able to tell if a wine is going to morph into something of greatness, but you can tell more than you think, imo.

jb

No. I don't read the RP site, but you certainly wouldn't get crap from me for trying a wine in its infancy to see if you like it. Now if you opened another one a week later for kicks, I might give you a funny look.

jb

RF,

I remember thatthread on eBob, and I remember being *shocked* that folks on that board would take their wine -- and their opinions -- so seriously. Especially on a product that's as rediculously overrated as Burgundy rouge.

Just not enough hours in the day, anthony.

Anyway, getting back to Christoffel, RF, have you had the '02 Auslese? I was a bit underwelmed by it. I have 2 bottles left. How long should I hold them?

jb

jb, I don't there is a point to opening young Burgundy. I rely, though with less than complete confidence, on Parker and WS "experts" to give me a lead on what to buy. They may be drinkable in their youth, as many Rhones are, but their evolution into something truly wonderful is what I'm looking for.

I also don't have time for ebob. What I've read over there on occasion is dry and posturing. I spend my time here and check WS usually just before going to bed.

Thanks RF. I think I will just hold them and see what gives. I haven't had more than a few aged German Rieslings. I have about 5 bottles of various '01 and maybe 6 or 7 bottles of '02. I think I will hold them all and see what gives. I can still find more '02 QbA and Kabinett for near-term drinking.

I suppose we just agree to disagree, Board-O. I really don't want to buy a quantity of a wine based on a Rovani or Per-Henrik review, hold it for 10 years and see if I like the wine at all then. Way too fraught with risk. I believe in "me" more than I believe in "them". Not that I think I am a better critic, because I don't. But I am the best person in the world at determining what I like.

jb

I was wondering why there were so many posts on this - most of it was on Burgundy.

I have to say that I loved this wine at the trade tasting so I bought 3 cases. I've been both impressed and underwhelmed by this wine - it seems to change every 2 months.

I will say that the 2002 Christoffel UW auslese* that I had the last night was spectacular. This was another wine that I loved a year ago, but have been underwhelmed by it off and on until last night. The 2002 Christoffel ET auslese** is also spectacular now. After drinking these wines the past several weeks, I can't open anything else - it would be huge drop off.

I have to say that even when a Christoffel is off, it is never bad for me - just not exciting. When they are on, I'm in heaven. Rf, I'm sure you are the same way with Donnhoffs.