OK, this was the wonderful evening when I has to dry some 45 flutes with a cloth but then was allowed upstairs with Spiegelau Authentis Champagne glasses (not flutes but the real thing). The Ruinart rep (a Frenchman with absolute textbook accent) did his powerpoint thing and we proceeded to taste the bubblies.
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV
Superb aesthetics for the new bottle. Elegant and decidedly lightbodied blanc de blancs, perhaps a little too light for me. Tasty and pleasant introduction for the night. This one I had from a flute (Authentis, though). 88
Ruinart "R" Brut NV
Serious juice. This had a nice pinot presence and it showed, close to the body of a Special Cuvée or Cattier 1er Cru bottling. Great aromatics with flower petals and the expected bit of yeast in the nose, mouthfilling with such a pleasant feeling of pinot weight, longish... great. 90-91
Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 1993
Stop the presses, here endeth the session for me. Wow and WOW and I could go on. This was simply beautiful. Amazing for its age, amazing for a blanc de blancs. Had more body and more complexity than the "R" without a drop of pinot. The whole thing is achieved with age (and superb choice of vineyards, of course). Delicious without the slightest reservation. Everything is in its place, perfect balance: weight in the mouth but such refreshing acidity, biscuity complex nose matched by the flavors yet not even a little close to fading. Compared with the Bollinger Grande Anee 1992 (which gave hints of oxidation and dead petals just a few months before) this performed like a real beauty with years to come. 94+
Ruinart Brut Rosé
I tried this when every other of the 16 tasters was already standing even leaving the room. I had to devote my time to the 1993. The rosé (my first rosé) was very light and fresh, with pleasant vinosity and a clear flowery touch. Retried downstairs, I could have polished a bottle in no time. But give me the real thing anytime... 88
As a funny corollary, four diners in the tasca that night saw the $ 1,800 magnum of Ruinart L'Exclusive in its glamorous silver Christoffle prison and decided to open it. The Ruinart rep couldn't believe his eyes. And the owners call this thing a Tasca?
