1985 Moët et Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon -- beautiful light gold colour, fine bead; very fresh nose, like breathing sea air, lemon meringue, honey; loaded with flavour, green apple, Brazil nut, hazelnut, citrus, honey, rich on the palate, big acidity, lip-smacking; long finish with honey, lemon and soy sauce flavours that fade out slowly. Around 95 pts. At first it's hard to believe that this wine isn't a lot younger, but it gains more complexity with each mouthful. A wine-lover's wine, if you know what I mean: provocative, one to talk about over dinner (which we did!).

That sounds most lip-smacking. What a treat.