1998 Hugel Riesling Alsace Cuvee Jubilee -- Etienne Hugel, of the obvious family, states that this is a Grand Cru Riesling, which I believe, though for the life of me I don't recall which vineyard it's from (I'm pretty sure it started with an "S" so I'm guessing it's Schoenenbourg); I have no idea why they don't market it as such--doesn't "Grand Cru" carry any cache any more?

In any event, the wine suffers not at all from being named merely Jubilee; it's outstanding. Lovely pale gold color; on the nose, lots of mineral, some soap--not quite petrol; in the mouth, an initial impression of dust and minerals, almost breathtaking lemony acidity, very clean; fills the palate; hints of Granny Smith apples appear instantly on the finish; sensations of lip-smacking tartness; more and sweeter lemon flavors--akin to a tart pie filling--as the wine warms, with hints of ginger; VERY long finish, around 60-90 seconds of clear flavor.

Wonderful dichotomy between lightness on the palate and concentrated length of flavors. Exciting to drink, every mouthful minutely different from the previous one. An experience to be savoured. This wine is just ambling slowly into its drinking window now; I'd love to try it again in 5 years and in 10. Verging on greatness. App. 94-5 pts.

Hugel does two "tiers" of Grand Cru's. They produce a single vineyard style but more commonly they produce wine from three or four Grand Cru vineyards and blend them into one Cuvee.

I'm not sure which one this is but I would say the Blended Grand Cru. As far as I am aware the reasoning is that it produces a more generic style based on quality rather than a terroir /individualised style which may not be up to par in terms of Hugels level of quality. Also the fact that they are probably the largest producers in Alsace means that a more generic styles works in their favour.

You may be right, Jeremy.

I think understood Hugel to say that this wine comes from one Grand Cru vineyard, but perhaps that varies by the vintage. Or perhaps I misunderstood.

In any event, it's terrific wine, no matter what the source. I'd be happy to drink this at every possible opportunity.

seaquam-how many canadian dollars for this one?

About C$70 here at release.