1985 Robert Chevillon “Les Cailles” Premier Cru. Nuits-Saint-George, Cote de Nuits, France. $55 (current price).

I cut my teeth on NSGs from Chevillon. Chevillon wines (imported by Kermit Lynch, the trailblazing Berkeley wine merchant) are some of the most consistent Burgundies one can purchase. I recently polished off the last of the 87s (a mediocre vintage) that I bought as futures from Kermit 13 years ago - the Les Saint George Premier Cru was still going strong. Recently, I picked up this well cellared example (imported by Kermit) from John Walker to see how well the 1985s are aging (the vast majority of which should already have been consumed by now). Deep ruby red color that finishes with orange at the edge. A mature but still quite strong nose of decayed red fruits, sandalwood, merde (in the best Burgundian sense of the word, blood, and iron. Beautiful warm wet ethereal texture in the mouth that only comes from age. Light tannins joined with well integrated acidity. A pleasant persistent finish of acid and plums. I looked up Parker’s original review of this wine. He gave it a 90 and said to consume it between 1995 and 1997. Six years post Parker’s maturity estimate, this wine remains very drinkable with beautiful evolved flavors. I just wish the wine has the aromatics that a 18 year old Burgundy should ideally develop in the cellar. 87 points. Drink now.