2002 Shinn Winery Merlot “Young Vines”. North Fork of Long Island, New York. 12.5% alcohol. $25.
From three-year-old vines, this winery’s first Merlot is a surprisingly decent effort. It was raised in new French oak for ten months but the oak plays only a slightly excessive role. Plum and smooth round oak in the nose. Light tannins and good acidity. The Shinn’s made their mark originally as restaurateurs – Home restaurant in Greenwich Village is theirs and perhaps not surprisingly their wine presents as a serviceable restaurant wine for the New York dining scene. Drink now to 2007. 84 points.