Ken Wright Cellars is based in Carlton, Oregon in the heart of the Willamette Valley. We made an appointment to visit on Friday and were met by Dale West, their sales manager. Dale graciously took two hours out of his day and gave us the VIP treatment explaining their philosophy in vineyard management and wine making. The winery makes thirteen single vineyard Pinot Noirs from its thirteen vineyards around the Willamette. All are made in a similar style so it was a real treat to barrel sample from nine of them and explore the differences of vine age, soil and elevation.

Each of the following are barrel samples from the 2003 vintage - a hot vintage that has resulted in some of the highest levels of alcohol they have ever produced. I believe that all were 15% plus.

Nysa vineyard - Vines from Pommard planted in 1990 on volcanic soil of Dundee next to the vineyards of Archery Summit and Beau Frere. This was my favourite. Possibly because it was the first tasted but it seemed to have a bit more acid and so better countered the alcohol. Probably also one of the more elegant of the bottlings. Red fruit and white pepper but also blueberry and earth. Long finish.

Canary Hills vineyard - In the Eola area, also Pommard vines (667 and 115) planted in the early 80s on volcanic soil but at a higher elevation. Nose was closed yet palate was more fruit forward with floral and liqueur notes.

Carter vineyard - Close to and similar to the above at a slightly lower elevation and less fertile soils. This wine showed more tannin, though very fine, and more earth with a very long finish.

Meredith Mitchell vineyard - Situated on the West side on the valley in the Coastal range. Still volcanic soils. Planted in 1988 of Pommard vines. This wine baffled me. It seemed to pick up more of the oak vanillins than any of the others and besides the typical flowers, dark berries and pepper also showed green apple and merlot-like plum. Good round mouthfeel.

Shea vineyard - The first of the sedimentary soils we tasted. This vineyard is privately managed and is gaining a serious reputation providing fruit to many of the top producers. Planted in 1989 of primarily Dijon vines, it lies at the higher elevations. The wine was particularly complex for a barrel sample revealing white pepper, almonds, cherries and coffee. Soft, round and long. Delicious.

Guadalope vineyard Also planted in 1989 on sedimentary soils of the Yamhill area. This is supposed to be one of the better vineyards (I'm sure they are all great) but I didn't get much from this. Full bodied with considerable tannin but closed.

Savoya vineyard - This vineyard is owned and managed by the winery. Planted in 1999 of Dijon vines on phylloxera resistant rootstock. Great flavours: leather, earth, white pepper and coffee with a long cherry finish. The body seemed a bit overwhelmed by the tannins. (?)

Wahle vineyard - One of the oldest vineyards in the Yamhill area, planted in 1974 of Pommard vines. I found this to be the most interesting. A big wine with an old world nose of loam, leather and clove. Fruit was tight but long.

McCrone vineyard - A young vineyard of Dijon vines, this wine had a nice balance of fruit forward and elegance. It seemed a bit shorter than the rest but maybe my palate was getting tired.