 | | VinoCellar.com Wine Forums | |
|  |
|  | | Author | Messages | |
Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/07/2004 10:43 PM |
| A DAY OF WASHINGTON RELEASES: CADENCE, DELILLE AND ROSS ANDREW - Seattle, WA, USA (11/6/2004)
Saturday was the official release day for a couple of Washington wineries (Cadence, DeLille) along with a sneak-preview tasting for another (Ross Andrew). These three wineries along with Betz and Quilceda are my favorite in Washington, so it was a nice afternoon of tasting. CADENCE WINERY Ben Smith and Gaye McNutt at Cadence Winery have to be among the nicest and most humble people making wine in the state, and I was eager to visit their winery for the first time. As with 2001, the 2002 lineup is very consistent and very strong in my opinion. A very pleasant surprise was running into Bob Betz and have him remember me from his recent release party. Bob is such an amazing ambassador for Washington wine and a terrifically nice guy for showing support to Ben & Gaye.
- 2002 Cadence Coda - Columbia Valley, Washington, USA
This is a second label for Cadence that is meant to be fairly approachable. 43% Cabernet Franc, 29% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot from a variety of vineyards. The nose screams of blueberry and vanilla with some herbal influence. The palate is better, more serious, somewhat savory. Give this 6-12 months to burn off some sugar and then chug away. (86 pts.)
- 2002 Cadence Ciel du Cheval - Red Mountain, Washington, USA
43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Cabernet Franc, 23% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Mmm, this is very floral with some alcohol peeking out. The nose gets more interesting though showing coffee, leather and even some nuts, great nose! The palate shows exceptionally bright acid with smooth texture, very juicy, verging towards red fruits. It finishes out well with fine, dusty tannins coating the palate. A very nicely polished wine. (92 pts.)
- 2002 Cadence Klipsun Vineyard - Red Mountain, Washington, USA
70% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Syrah, and 4% Petit Verdot. This was the least impressive of the main wines. Lots of coffee and blackberry. The tannins are surprisingly tame for this often ferocious vineyard. (89 pts.)
- 2002 Cadence Tapteil - Red Mountain, Washington, USA
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. This was easily my favorite wine of the 2002 Cadence lineup and of the day (as compared to 2002 DeLille and 2001 Ross Andrew). This is darker and more brooding than any of the other Cadence wines, somewhat closed in aromatically but with pure, powerful notes of cassis, this just says "Cabernet!" in a great way. The palate is the amazing part, HUGE structure, gripping, yet with loads of depth and fruit to back it up. The finish is long with dusty, noble tannins. I absolutely loved the grippy mouthfeel and dark, brooding personality of this wine, yummy! (94 pts.)
- 2002 Cadence Bel Canto - Red Mountain, Washington, USA
48% Cabernet Franc (Ciel du Cheval Vineyard), 48% Merlot (Tapteil Vineyard), and 4% Petit Verdot (Ciel du Cheval Vineyard). This is a reserve blend of Franc and Merlot. The nose assaults you with ripe plums and floral notes. On this palate this is dusty and powerful, remaining floral yet also quite spicy. This is much softer than the Tapteil yet still has plenty of tooth-coating tannin. (91 pts.)
DeLILLE CELLARS The folks at DeLille Cellars always put together a nice release weekend. The Blanc, D2 and Doyenne are released in November, and the Harrison and Chaleur Red follow in February. As always, all five wines are poured.
- 2003 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Blanc - Washington, USA
58% Sauvignon Blanc and 42% Semillon. The more I taste the Chaleur Blanc, the more I realize that it is a wine I only want to taste at a meal. Even then, this is very, very heavily wooded. The nose assaults you with smoke and lemon creamsicle. The palate is round and spicy, but for me it is just way too much wood. I can't get past that. (82 pts.)
- 2002 DeLille Cellars Syrah Doyenne - Washington, USA
98% Syrah and 2% Viognier. In 2002 the Doyenne has been rebranded as a separate winery, although it does mention in the fine print that it is produced and bottled at DeLille Cellars. In the future more Rhone wines will come from this Doyenne label, leaving the main DeLille brand to continue its focus on Bordeaux varietals. The nose on this wine explodes with blueberry liqueur, vanilla cookie (lots of oak), a nice note of Viognier inspired orange peel and a hint of tar. Despite the oakiness, the wine easily has the stuffing to soak this up and integrate it. This has a farily juicy entry and spreads out on the palate showing a polished Syrah, not oversweet or cough-syrupy, with lots of mineral underneath the ripe fruit. The oak shows up again on the finish with lots of caramel, and here it seems a little intrusive with slightly choppy tannins and a hint of alcoholic harshness. This is not quite an outstanding effort, but I hope it will integrate the wood and settle down into a nice Syrah. (88 pts.)
- 2002 DeLille Cellars D2 - Washington, USA
49% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Lots of reddish-black fruit on the nose with an intriguing note of ash. This has great mouthfeel with sweet fruit and a fairly bright overall impression. The finish is spicy with lots of coffee and mocha. A solid D2. (88 pts.)
- 2002 DeLille Cellars Harrison Hill - Yakima Valley, Washington, USA
64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The Harrison Hill always seems to curl my toes on release, and the 2002 is no exception. Heady notes of cassis and mineral leap out of the glass, a very pure nose of Cabernet. This has gorgeous texture on entry with terrific balance and integration. Very juicy and ripe with a lot of stuffing to age and a long, seamless finish. Terrific wine, my favorite of the 2002 DeLille's. (93 pts.)
- 2002 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate - Red Mountain, Washington, USA
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, 86% from Red Mountain. This has an alluring nose that is arguably more complex than the Harrison Hill albeit less rambunctious. Blackberry, lead pencil and olive come wafting from the glass. The palate is glorious, spicy and seamless, absolutely delicious. This doesn't scream Cabernet like the Harrison does, and for that I liked it a bit less. That said, it has better balance and spice and may well be the better wine in the long run even though I like the Harrison a notch more right now. (92 pts.)
ROSS ANDREW WINERY Ross Mickel is officially releasing the 2001 Ross Andrew on 11/14, but he was pre-pouring at McCarthy & Schiering. For $25 retail, you aren't going to do a lot better anywhere.
- 2001 Ross Andrew Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Columbia Valley, Washington, USA
Ross has done it again. This is a juicy and elegant Cabernet with a lot going on. The nose is slightly leathery with cassis and olive. The palate shows lots of mineral notes and Cabernet character, a little understated (less wood, less extraction) than the DeLille and Cadence, but it is terrific nonetheless. I wonder if it is a bit closed right now. This is clean and well made, great job! (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker! | | | |
| Eric White San Ramon, CA
 Advanced Sommelier Posts:9220


 | | 11/08/2004 12:21 AM |
| Thanks for the notes Eric, good to see Ben is still on top of his game. I'm still enjoying his 2000s, I think I am going to have to grab some of the 02s while I can  | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Master of Wine Posts:11169

 | | 11/08/2004 12:31 AM |
| | I have to tell you- I read these notes and I laugh, actually laugh. I'm auctioning off most of my 1978, 1981, and 1988 Bordeaux because Parker wrote glowing reviews when they were released and I bought them, only to have them develop into disjointed wines. And it's not only those two vintages and not only Bordeaux. He also raved initially about the 1979, 1981, and 1982 Burgundies which mostly turned into dreadful wines, and I'm talking about Grand Crus. Loads of American wines met a similar fate. Many wines taste good when young due to the ebullience of their fruit and their unidimensional appeal. I hope you'll keep these notes and some of these wines and see what your batting average is. If it's as good as Parker's, which is highly doubtful, you won't be happy. | | | |
| Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/08/2004 1:00 AM |
| | Board-O, have you had wines from DeLille or Cadence before? Quilceda? What do YOU like in Washington State? I am not trying to be Robert Parker, just sharing what I like. And I will save all the notes, as they are all on www.cellartracker.com. I hope that all of these develop as nicely, as I think they will. | | | |
| Winetex Austin, Texas
 Master of Wine Posts:10770


 | | 11/08/2004 1:37 AM |
| | Eric - thank you for the notes. The 2000 Cadence Ciel du Cheval we had last night was drinking quite well. | | | |
| Eric White San Ramon, CA
 Advanced Sommelier Posts:9220


 | | 11/08/2004 1:42 AM |
| Jeeze Board-O, am I missing something? I don't see the connection between Eric's TNs and your post about early glowing reviews of certain Bordeaux vintages. Eric's post doesn't seem to be drawing conclusions about the ageworthness of these wines, just his impressions. | | | |
| Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/08/2004 2:11 AM |
| Quote:
Jeeze Board-O, am I missing something? I don't see the connection between Eric's TNs and your post about early glowing reviews of certain Bordeaux vintages. Eric's post doesn't seem to be drawing conclusions about the ageworthness of these wines, just his impressions.
Not true. I mention ageing next to the 2002 Harrison Hill.
Then again, I had a 1994 last year which I enjoyed greatly, so I have some vague sense of where this might be going. Frankly, outside of Quilceda Creek, I don't view WA-wines as big agers. I enjoy them for their bright acids, and for those winemakers who don't overdose on oak I think there are some terrific wines.
I am not sure what axe Board-O has to grind with me. He went off on me here as well.  | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Master of Wine Posts:11169

 | | 11/08/2004 2:17 AM |
| Eric, I'll spell out the connection for you. I guess I wasn't clear enough. Young wines like this taste very little like they do when fully mature and prime. If one enjoys drinking these wines when they are showing their best, as I do, these notes on recently bottled wines are relatively valueless. Basing judgements on the quality of these recently bottled wines has a very high degree of inaccuracy, even when done by the so-called experts. There's no substitute for experience in this field.
I'm not disputing that these wines are approachable now. Eric says many of them are and I don't dispute that. I have seen value jusdgements on young wines have virtually no relevance to mature wines when done by Parker and Wine Spectator far too often to place in credence in these notes. As far as I'm concerned, they're of no value in assessing the evolution of a given wine, just in how the grape juice tastes now. | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Master of Wine Posts:11169

 | | 11/08/2004 2:25 AM |
| | I don't have an ax to grind. Apparently you take my opinions as a personal insult. And if you don't think many Washington wines are built to age, we have nothing to discuss. Enjoy the 2001 Quilceda Creek real soon. | | | |
| Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/08/2004 2:27 AM |
| Thanks for spelling it out in nice small words for me.
You seem to have a prejudice or certainly very strong opinons about the "proper" age for drinking a wine. To each their own. As I mentioned, I don't treat WA-wines like Bordeaux, as they are frankly nice, fresh and approachable.
I am sorry that my notes are of absolutely no value to you. They seem to be of value to others, so I am going to keep posting them. Since I clearly don't have a clue maybe you can just make both our lives easier by not replying to threads I start and instead laughing at me in the privacy of your own home.
Deal? | | | |
| Eric White San Ramon, CA
 Advanced Sommelier Posts:9220


 | | 11/08/2004 2:28 AM |
| Quote:
Not true. I mention ageing next to the 2002 Harrison Hill.
Yes, I noticed that, but I was refering to the overall post - in general you are not suggesting drinking windows for these wines.
Board-O, now I understand where you are coming from, it's the same arguement you've been through time and time again regarding young vs. aged wines, an arguement I wll not get drawn into again. However in this case it seems to me you've really gone out on a limb to try to make your point, and it comes across (to me) as an unjustified, unprovoked swipe at a valuable contributor to these forums. Jeeze, EricLeV isn't the same person as DRAB... | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Master of Wine Posts:11169

 | | 11/08/2004 2:29 AM |
| | I spelled it out for Eric White. Now I will continue laughing in the privacy of my own own. Thanks for your permission. | | | |
| Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/08/2004 2:30 AM |
| Quote:
I don't have an ax to grind. Apparently you take my opinions as a personal insult. And if you don't think many Washington wines are built to age, we have nothing to discuss. Enjoy the 2001 Quilceda Creek real soon.
In fact yes, in the two times you have weighed on my threads I have found you to be more insulting that any other person I have ever interacted with on a wine board. I guess the written word can be brittle though, and if this is your standard reply I will have to grow thicker skin and deal with it.
And don't worry, apart from a couple of early samplers I don't intend to touch my 2 cases of 2001 Quilceda for 10 years minimum. I happen to have tasted Quilceda in many vintages going back to 1983, and Alex and co. are doing something very different from the rest of the state. Different animal. Needs a lot of time. | | | |
| Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/08/2004 2:35 AM |
| Quote:
Quote:
Board-O, now I understand where you are coming from, it's the same arguement you've been through time and time again regarding young vs. aged wines, an arguement I wll not get drawn into again. However in this case it seems to me you've really gone out on a limb to try to make your point, and it comes across (to me) as an unjustified, unprovoked swipe at a valuable contributor to these forums. Jeeze, EricLeV isn't the same person as DRAB...
Thank you very much Eric! (I started to get drawn in, but I guess there is a longer-term pattern at work...) | | | |
| Blair Ridley
 Wine Labeler Posts:3980

 | | 11/08/2004 2:05 PM |
| | Thanks for the notes, Eric. I greatly appreciate the time you put into your tasting notes. The more data points the better our information is for the long run. | | | |
| max
 Grape Fermenter Posts:576

 | | 11/08/2004 2:48 PM |
| | I enjoy the notes as well. | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Barrel Filler Posts:1210

 | | 11/08/2004 5:01 PM |
| Quote:
Not true. I mention ageing next to the 2002 Harrison Hill.
Then again, I had a 1994 last year which I enjoyed greatly, so I have some vague sense of where this might be going.
The 94 Delille Chaleur was excellent as well. I am wishing I had been able to taste them young so I knew what they were like to begin with.
Are you going to Ross's open house event? If so, I might see you there. | | | |
| Eric LeVine
 Grape Sorter Posts:384

 | | 11/08/2004 5:46 PM |
| Hi Scott, I am hoping to get to Ross' open house but not 100% sure as I will have a bunch of family in town.
If anything the 1994's are probably uncharacteristically long-aging for WA reds. (Again, modulo Quilceda.) | | | |
| ChangeMe
 Grape Fermenter Posts:667

 | | 11/08/2004 10:22 PM |
| Eric - I appreciate your notes!
The King and I had an '02 tasting and lunch with Ben and Gaye (of Cadence) about a month ago. The Tapteil is a pleasant surprise this year for me, followed by Ciel, Klipsun, BC. I'd give the CODA another point or two, this is a very impressive blend for under $20. It's been our "house wine" (read: drink now! ) for the past month. One of the best values from Washington right now. (Ben will be pouring at M&S next Saturday for anyone who missed the release).
The '02 DeLille lineup, as usual, does not disappoint. I have also been partial to Harrison Hill in recent years, save for the '99 Chaleur. But this year, I'd put the two of them neck and neck. I left my Doyenne to breathe for about an hour before we took a walk up to visit the sheep (Seaquam!! ) and the site of the '02 debauchery. It was stunning with some air (the wine, not the sheep)and continues the Syrah winning streak for Chris Upchurch. I stocked up. It was a gorgeous Northwest autumn day to boot.
With a filet dinner we polished off a Harrison and it was simply amazing with food. Stocked up here as well.
My jury is still out on Ross Mickel's third vintage. I will give it another shot next week. It needed more time in the glass. Had the '99 Saturday night, out of curiosity, and it's still the Ross Andrew winner for me. If you have the '99, now would be a good time to pop one (had it next to a '99 Oroppos and it held its own). | | | |
| jaimetown DC area
 Wine Bottler Posts:3484


 | | 11/08/2004 10:30 PM |
| Thanks for the notes Eric - I'm glad to hear Delille's wines are doing well. I've got a few bottles of the 2001 Chaleur Estate and Harrison Hill coming (encouraged by the Queen's write-up here a while back).
I saw a bottle of the 2000 Doeyenne at a clearance rack at Whole Foods - maybe I should give it a go. | | | |
|
| | You are not authorized to post a reply. |
|
| |
ActiveForums 3.7 |
|  |
| |
|
|  | Proposed Change to American Viticultural Area Naming Standards Monday, March 10, 2008
| Wine Primers - Links to Your Wine Education Tuesday, February 12, 2008
| Wine Country Report: Day trip to the Willamette Valley Monday, February 11, 2008
| VinoCellar's Favorite Wine Links Saturday, February 09, 2008
| Wine Retailer Reports - Thanks Winetex! Monday, February 04, 2008
|
|
|  |
| |
|  |  | Membership: |  | Latest:mfay |  | New Today:0 |  | New Yesterday:1 |  | Overall:2044 |
 | People Online: |  | Visitors:99 |  | Members:5 |  | Total:104 |
|
|
|  |
| |
|