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Jim Cowan
 Grape Destemmer Posts:81

 | | 04/14/2005 12:15 PM |
| 2001 Dominio de Tares, Mencia: Made from 100% mencia from the Bierzo region, northwest of Madrid, this is the first vintage from this house; the wine smells of ripe, dark cherries, black plums, stones and brown spices; medium body, silky texture, very fine grained tannins, focused yet rich flavors that follow the nose, good concentration, intensity and balance; long and slightly astringent on the finish. Although somewhat more tannic than pinot noir, this shares some of the texture, weight and spice elements of a Côte-de-Nuits, and gives the overall sensation of clarity. It is 13.5% alcohol, $12, surely capable of a medium term shelf life and, perhaps, some development. Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle.
2002 Fevre, Chablis Champs Royaux: Solid Chablis with no overt wood, a sense of place and ripe fruit. But this is not something I’ll buy again. There is little depth of flavor, minimal concentration and, overall, nothing convincing about the wine. A decent bottle but just not enough. About $16.
2002 Bodegas Mustiguillo, Mestizaje: Having had my first bottle of this a couple days ago (see note “All over the lot”), I wanted to revisit the wine to be certain it’s as good as I thought – it is. ‘Hard to believe this is a $12 bottle.
1993 Bonair, Cabernet Sauvignon Morrison Vineyard: This Yakima Valley cabernet smells of Amarone and insecticide, delivers a raisened very Amarone-like flavor profile in a lightweight, fully resolved manner with a medium length, slightly drying, finish. The label says 12.5% alcohol but the style indicates over-ripeness; so I’m thinking either the label lies or they used some very toasty American oak barrels. More interesting than pleasurable and in decline.
Best, Jim | | | |
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