2004 von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte, Kabinett
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
$15

Pale yellow with straw green. Nose: Focused, expressive, complex. White peach, pear, litchi, apricot?, and green apple. All these framed with the unmistakably Mosel slatey mineral. Palate: This wine is very young...too young to be drunk now. Some spritz. In the mouth it's lithe with bright, zinging acidity. The acid is almost too sharp...need a couple years of bottle aging to soften it. Impecabble balance between fruits, alcohol, acid and that touch of sussreserve. Long, lingering finish.

This is an excellent kabinett, and I think it will improve over 5 to 7 years easily in the cellar.

Phyll's score: 93 pts