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Subject: Loire Primer
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DJ HombreUser is Offline
Napa Valley, California
Barrel Filler
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01/22/2004 1:53 AM  
Written by Eric White on WS 7.30.03

Muscadet - I don't have any specific producers to recommend, but a couple of things to point out. First, seek out "Muscadet Sur Lie", meaning the wine has been aged on the dead yeast cells, infusing the wine with more flavors and a richer texture. Muscadet comes from the Nantes region, way out at the coast, and it's crisp acidic body is the perfect match for oysters. Expect the cost of these refreshing wines to be fairly low also (<$15-$20).

Chenin Blanc - Ahhh, here is where the Loire valley really shines. Generally from the central Loire Valley (Anjou & Touraine), they run the gamut from dry, to sweet, to sparkling. Regions of particular interest would include:

-Vouvray - dry, medium sweet (sec), and very sweet (moelleux), lightly sparkling (petillant), and fully sparkling (mousseux). The better still wines are capable of aging for decades. Producers to look out for incldue Huët, Pichot, & Foreau, but don't be afraid to experiement with some of the more accessable and less expensive Vouvrays available, including one of my favorites - Bernard Fouquet.

- Coteaux du Layon
- Quarts-de-Chaume
- Coteaux de l'Aubance
- Bonnezeaux
In the best years, these regions can produce wonderful, seemingly ageless sweet chennins that are unmatched anywhere. Producers to look out for include Delesvaux, Baumard, Rene Renou, & Chateau de Suronde.

Cabernet Franc - with the exception of Sancerre, which produces Pinot, Cabernet Franc is the red wine of the Loire valley. Under-ripe versions of this wine from the Loire can often display weedy, vegetal, and sometime bitter notes, but when they get it right it is rich, plummy, and delicious. In my opinion, this is one area were vintage matters probably more than producer - good recent vintages include 95, 96, 97, & '00. Regions of interest include:

- Saumur-Champigny, producing typically lighter, pleasant reds (perfect for summer afternoon sipping).
- Chinon
- Bourgueil
These two are just across the river from each other, and while there are arguements for each, in my mind they produce wines that are quite similar to each other - hearty, rich, and full bodied.

Enough for now, I think I'll leave Puilly-Fume & Sancerre for another day.
CarlUser is Offline
Grape Fermenter
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Posts:462


01/25/2004 7:37 PM  
DJ Hombre (or Eric White? ), I am looking forward to the rest of your post. The Loire has been completely off my radar screen, perhaps because it seems so varied and large and therefore daunting. But I have come to realize I like Sauvignon Blanc (the nearest thing to a thirst-quenching dry German Riesling QbA), so plan to try more Pouilly-Fume. Also antipodean Sauvignon Blanc, but that's for another thread.

I was told by someone that if I buy Muscadet, it should also always be from Sevre-et-Maine. Do you know anything about that?
Eric WhiteUser is Offline
San Ramon, CA
Advanced Sommelier
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Posts:9146


01/25/2004 8:05 PM  
cbmac, yes - I am the original author. I'll put more together soon.

As far as Muscadet goes, there are four AOCs:
  • Muscadet
  • Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu
  • Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire
  • Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine

Of these, Muscadet produces the most ordinary wines, while Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine produces the best Muscadet has to offer.

Equally important is to seek out Muscadet sur lie. Muscadet is a very high acid grape, sur lie indicates the wine has been aged on it's dead yeast cells, which provides a rounder, creamier, and more approachable texture to the wine.

A Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie with raw oysters is one of the most perfect food matches ever concieved. You can see why, as you walk along the beachs of Southwest of Nantes you will see oysters everywhere, just laying there scattered all over the beach.
CarlUser is Offline
Grape Fermenter
Grape Fermenter
Posts:462


02/03/2004 1:17 PM  
Hmm, this is starting to get interesting. I have been doing a little reading up on Vouvray wines. I see Parker gave a lot of them 95+ points particularly the 1997s...and they run between $60-100 a bottle. Also, that some from the 1940s and 1950s are still drinking. I will have to try some. Should I go for producer or vineyard? Hugh Johnson has Le Haut Leiu, Le Mont, and Close du Bourg as being among the best vineyards. But maybe these are all monopoles of Huet, the producer?

(I realize this is starting to sound like a socratic dialog, but it's interesting). Also, what is the classic, demi-sec, dry or sweet? Might as well start with that and then try the others.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
Barrel Filler
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Posts:1371


02/03/2004 4:22 PM  
IMO the Moullieux are the way to go with the Vouvrays and are the real reason to seek them out. I don't mind drinking dry or semi-sweet chenin from vouvray, but the moullieux are the exceptional, long aging and unique products of Vouvray,
jasonUser is Offline
Napa Valley
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Posts:6846


03/17/2004 8:30 PM  
Can anyone recommend some good producers of Chinon? Was 2001 a good vintage in this region?

Mahalo ahead of time.
MarcelUser is Offline
Grape Puncher
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Posts:875


03/17/2004 8:45 PM  
I don't drink much Chinon, but I usually like Domaine Charles Joguet. His Les Varennes du Grand Clos is pretty good.
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