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Subject: Recommendations near Turin and Asti
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Randy SloanUser is Offline
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11/15/2007 6:24 PM  
We're spending next week near Turin and Asti.  Any recommendations on wineries or restaurants?

Randy Sloan
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WinetexUser is Offline
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11/15/2007 8:37 PM  
Randy, I'm searching for a list of restaurants we went to on both of our trips. Most of them are around Alba. Fortunately there is now a high-speed highway in between so it doesn't take as long to wind between the hills.

Great is an understatement when it comes to food in Piedmont. The wines aren't too shabby either.

Found it -

MARCHESI DI BAROLO - a lovely lunch in the winery

L'OSTERIA DEL VIGNAIOLO, near La Morra - very good

LA LIBERA in Alba - one of the happening spots these days in Alba

LE TORRE in Barbaresco - a very small restaurant - lunch was superb

OSTERIA DELL' ARCO in Alba - again wonderful; the poster below didn't think so

LA CANTINETTA in BAROLO - small but my very favorite; the best filled pasta in Piedmont IMHO; a perfect lunch

*************
Other recos (from the Parker board but I don't remember who wrote them):

Also highly rated is Ristorante Belvedere in La Morra. Breathtaking views overlooking the Barolo valley below and an extensive, if a bit pricey, wine list.

I got a lot of advice from people who know the region very well and will say that Il Centro in Priocca was our finest dining/wine experience, although it's a little of the beaten path; runners up were Trattoria Della Posta and lunch at Belvedere. Ciao Tornavento is apparently hit or miss (we pretty much missed) and we lamentably never made it to La Libera in Alba which basically everybody said was great.

The problem is that it is relatively difficult to find a bad meal there, by American standards, so it is often dueling excellence! I will add a couple of more thoughts: avoid Osteria dell' Arco in Alba. It has seen better days. Haven't been to Piazza Duomo yet, but Michelin has said that it will get a star in 2007, and local word of mouth has been great. Also, skip Gener Neuv in Asti and Vecchio Tre Stelle in Barbaresco this trip. Both are good, to be sure, but do not presently rank with the likes of Il Centro and Antine. I would also advise against both Guidos this trip (but only this trip). There have been negative recent reports on All'Enoteca in Canale, which used to be stunning, so something is up there. I am not a fan of Da Renzo in Cervere, either. I think that it is very good and very popular, but not the best that the Piemonte has to offer.

Likewise, Il Cascinale Nuovo in Isola d' Asti and Da Felicin in Monforte. (Please understand that I have no doubt named what some would consider to be among the best ristoranti they have ever eaten in. I am not denying that possibility. Just making relative quality judgments among fine restaurants!) Avoid La Contea in Neive at all costs. (La Luna nel Pozzo is the place to go in Neive.) I vote for Il Centro, Trattoria della Posta (second not because it is better than Antine, but because it is SO delightful to eat outside there in the summertime) and Antine, in that order of priority, and a lunch at Lalibera in Alba. Drop one for Cinio if you will, or maybe work Cinio, or one of the others, in for lunch (della Posta is the one of my three that I would do for lunch rather than dinner). Il Belvedere is a fine, old-line place with a strong wine list, so it could be another lunch candidate.


****************************

Feel free to PM me or email me at "my moniker"@hotmail.com if you have questions.  Having been there twice I might have more specific info if you need it.
Randy SloanUser is Offline
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11/15/2007 10:49 PM  
Thanks, "Tex." By the way, we're holding shipments to the gulf coast states until after Thanksgiving. It has been just too hot and now it is a bit cooler but I don't want to ship on a holiday week.

Randy Sloan
Match Vineyards
Joseph BembryUser is Offline
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11/28/2007 8:38 PM  

I'll second La Cantinetta in Barolo if you make it down there.  Just there a month ago and it was delicious with very fair wine prices.  05 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba for $28E and 00 Macarello Barolo Monprivato for $60E

 

I would suggest going to I Bologna in Rochetta Tanero.  It is owned by the Bologna family (Braida).  I had a delicious lunch there with Raffaella Bologna with great old vintages of Bricco dell'Uccellone.  Phenomenal!

 

Have a great trip and don't forget the Carne Cruda with White Truffles.

 

jb

Randy SloanUser is Offline
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11/29/2007 3:24 AM  
I'm back. Ate a bit of carne cruda and had a great white truffle pizza in Asti. Although it wasn't a wine and food focused trip, we did take Winetex's suggestion on a place to eat in Barbaresco. Torre was fantastic. Thanks!

The weather sucked the whole time we were in Italy. After a few days in Turin, we stayed in a small town called Cocconato. There were (supposedly) fantastic 360 degree panoramic views of the surrounding countryside from this hilltop town but I can't swear to it. Most of the time we couldn't see the bell tower 500 feet from our hotel due to fog. Oh well. We did get to have a nice Thanksgiving meal with our expat American friends which was the purpose of our trip. It was fun sharing the meal with their Italian guests though I could see the questioning looks as they wondered why anyone would make a big deal over our traditional Thanksgiving meal when there was the food of Piedmonte available. So, while we did have fun seeing friends, I would not recommend traveling to northern Italy this time of year. Between terrible weather, early darkness, and the custom of closing just about everything between 12:30 and 3:30, it was a challenge to be a tourist. Sigh.

Perhaps it will be better in Paris at Christmas. We are truly nuts.

Randy Sloan
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WinetexUser is Offline
Austin, Texas
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11/29/2007 8:24 AM  
If this tells you anything about the weather our guide on our Italy trips (originally from Piedmont) lives in Brooklyn, NY during the winter. And he owns a home in Piedmont. He said the fog is pretty normal for the region.

Glad you had some good food though!

Paris will be beautiful during Christmas but the weather probably won't be a lot better.
Randy SloanUser is Offline
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11/29/2007 12:06 PM  
Posted By Winetex on 11/29/2007 8:24 AM
Paris will be beautiful during Christmas but the weather probably won't be a lot better.

Yes. Sasha is spending this additional week in Europe, primarily in Paris and I'd say the chances are better than even she will get home and want to cancel the trip next month.  She doesn't "do" cold very well.

Randy Sloan
Match Vineyards
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