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Subject: Brunello primer
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CarlUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 10:40 AM  
I had my first Brunello di Montalcino two weeks ago in Rome (a 1997). Mmmm! Now I see that the 1999s are getting a lot of good press. I know very little about this wine, except that it is ageable and that Montalcino is fairly close to Montepulciano in Tuscany. Can anyone give a primer? Is it made from Sangiovese grapes or something else? What are its best qualities? Thanks.
MarcelUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 1:14 PM  
Brunello di Montalcino is made with Sangiovese Grosso, aka Brunello, a Sangiovese clone that has more color and tannins, besides the thicker skin and different shape of the leaves.

It must be 100% Sangiovese Grosso and matured at least 50 months before release, 62 months for "riserva" (minimum 2 years in oak casks), and the alcohol level must be at least 12.5%.

Like most regions in Italy, there's a new style and a old style - related to the kind of oak, whether it's new or old, the time it should mature in the casks, harvesting, etc. Most have berry aromas when young, but are way too tannic to be enjoyable. Latter it delevops nice secondary aromas, like leather, jam, oak and dried fruits. In good vintages it's like Barolo: you should wait at least 10 years before drinking - it needs plenty of decanting if you can't wait. But I would go for Rosso di Montalcino (same thing as Brunello, but it matures less time and usually it doesn't get the best grapes) if you want to drink something early.

As for producers, I particularly like Marchesi di Frescobaldi, Ciacci, Scopetone, Andrea Constanti, Tenuta La Poderina, Casanova di Neri and Pieve di Santa Restituta.
futronicUser is Offline
Toronto, Canada
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01/21/2004 4:13 PM  
Not really much to add to Mars' nice post, but I want to reiterate the fact that Brunello easily needs 10+ years from vintage in a good year.

Some of my favourite producers include Fuligni, Poggio Antico, and Constanti.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 4:48 PM  
Mars answer was text book perfect. I LOVE Brunellos. Just had a 1990 Poggio Antico BdM the other night. Outstanding! This wine was wonderful and appeared to still have some time left, although I can't believe it can get any better! Unfortunately, I'm down to my last 10 assorted 1990's now. Plenty of 95 and 97's in the hole.

If you want to get an idea of what Brunello vintages may taste like, buy some Rosso di Montalcino. It is made with younger vines and/or declassified BdM. Very affordable and very drinkable. Not quite to the depth of a BdM, but it puts you in the ballpark.
LandsharkUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 5:08 PM  
Besides those already mentioned I would recommend: Altesino, Antinori Pian delle Vigne, Casnuova delle Cerbaie, Castello Banfi, Fanti, Giuseppe Gorelli, Le Gode, Lisini, and Siro Pacenti
jaimetownUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 5:11 PM  
Great summary, everyone - does anyone know when the '99 Brunellos will hit the market? My favorite producers are Ciacci and Pertimali.
CarlUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 8:26 PM  
Thanks very much for the summary. As perhaps is obvious from some of my other posts, I am a loyal reader of Jancis Robinson's weekly wine column in the Financial Times. What do Brunello fans think of her statement:

Quote:

Ultra-purist Italophiles shoot me down if you will, but I have always been a bit agnostic about Brunello. It's been easy to admire, not so easy to enjoy, in my humble experience. There are... some over-the-top, dead fruit wines...




She goes on to say how exceptional the 1999s are, though.

Is she talking about "old" BdM, and the 1999s are "new" BdM? Or are these wines not for everybody's palate?
MarcelUser is Offline
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01/21/2004 10:02 PM  
I think she might be talking about the old style, traditional producers, like Biondi Santi... This might be a producer that could fit in her definition.

I do like BdM... the secret is patience. If you wait long enough the wine will open up and mature. If you try it too early it is indeed hard to appreciate it.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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02/07/2004 3:19 AM  
Mars:

Great primer. Very informative.
MarcelUser is Offline
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02/07/2004 4:58 AM  
Thanks, Lafon!

I'm also learning a lot here (specially about German, Spanish and American wines), so I'm glad to help when I can.
MarcelUser is Offline
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02/09/2004 5:56 PM  
Quote:

Great summary, everyone - does anyone know when the '99 Brunellos will hit the market? My favorite producers are Ciacci and Pertimali.




An Italian friend told me this Sunday will be the official press presentation of many 99 Brunello and 98 Brunello Reserva in Italy.
futronicUser is Offline
Toronto, Canada
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02/10/2004 12:34 AM  
I didn't know that '98 would be of sufficient quality to make a Riserva.

Thanks for the heads up, Mars.
Pool BoyUser is Offline
Laurl, MD (DC suburb)
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02/10/2004 2:54 PM  
Hey folks-- I just got this in my email inbox--

1999 Brunello di Montalcino Presale
Costanti..................................................................................$59.99
Fuligni..................................................................................$65.99
Lisini.....................................................................................$59.99
Lisini "Ugolaia".....................................................................$99.99
Poggio Antico.......................................................................$61.99
Poggio Antico Altero...........................................................$$61.99

Any comments? Any buys here? I have loved what I have had of Brunellos, but I do not know enough about producers or this particular vinatge... hep me out.

www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com
MarcelUser is Offline
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02/10/2004 3:49 PM  
TJ - they're all great producers. In a good vintage like '99 you could probably buy any of them blind, but the prices are fair - nothing to jump at - so maybe you can wait for some reviews.

Probably '99 will be a very good vintage, but better than '97? I don't think so... maybe as good as. I heard 99s might be more "elegant", while 97s were more "powerful". Of course some 99s will be better than some 97s, so why not buy both?
jaimetownUser is Offline
DC area
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02/10/2004 4:56 PM  
Quote:

Hey folks-- I just got this in my email inbox--

1999 Brunello di Montalcino Presale
Costanti..................................................................................$59.99
Fuligni..................................................................................$65.99
Lisini.....................................................................................$59.99
Lisini "Ugolaia".....................................................................$99.99
Poggio Antico.......................................................................$61.99
Poggio Antico Altero...........................................................$$61.99

Any comments? Any buys here? I have loved what I have had of Brunellos, but I do not know enough about producers or this particular vinatge... hep me out.




It looks like we can be sure that the '99s are going to be expensive, looking at these pre-release prices.
Pool BoyUser is Offline
Laurl, MD (DC suburb)
Master of Wine
Master of Wine
Posts:13672


02/11/2004 2:51 AM  
Quote:

Quote:

Hey folks-- I just got this in my email inbox--

1999 Brunello di Montalcino Presale
Costanti..................................................................................$59.99
Fuligni..................................................................................$65.99
Lisini.....................................................................................$59.99
Lisini "Ugolaia".....................................................................$99.99
Poggio Antico.......................................................................$61.99
Poggio Antico Altero...........................................................$$61.99

Any comments? Any buys here? I have loved what I have had of Brunellos, but I do not know enough about producers or this particular vinatge... hep me out.




It looks like we can be sure that the '99s are going to be expensive, looking at these pre-release prices.




Just what I was thinking, JT.

www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com
ChangeMeUser is Offline
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Posts:1074


02/11/2004 4:55 AM  
Mars:

When are you thinking of opening your '97 Brunellos? I had the Frescobaldi Castelgiocando recently and felt it was still way too tight.
MarcelUser is Offline
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02/11/2004 5:10 AM  
If you have few bottles from top producers I would say 2008+.

Then again, I won't be able to resist, so I'll probably open some in 2006-7 just to see how they are evolving. I think the best will be drinking very well for more than 15 years after vintage.
ChangeMeUser is Offline
Grape Stomper
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Posts:172


02/12/2004 9:12 PM  
just an F.Y.I. - I sampled the the Castello Banfi Poggio al Oro Riserva Brunello yesterday and it was no where near ready. Still very tight and tannic, and this after about 4 hours after being decanted. In due time,it should be a good one though..... Patience!
futronicUser is Offline
Toronto, Canada
Wine Bottler
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02/12/2004 11:15 PM  
Andrew,

Did you taste the '95 that the LCBO still has for sale, or the '97 that hasn't been offered yet?

I tasted the '95 last May and thought that it needs a minimum of another 5 years before I'll consider opening my first bottle.

If it was the '97 ... where did you taste it?
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