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Subject: Burgundy and Brunello Dinner Oct. 23rd at Incanto
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Barrel Filler
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10/28/2004 10:37 PM  
This was posted by Steve Rigisich on another board,

On Saturday night, 10 members of our wine tasting group passed on spending $1,000 to taste wines with RP and decided to have our own off-line focusing on Brunello and Burgundy. Thanks to Lafon for organizing the event. In the end, the only one Brunello was presented and it stood out like a sore thumb. It was a very good bottle of wine but I forgot to take notes. Maybe Leonard will see the post and chime in!

The Burgundies really shined with only one clunker (and a modest one, at that) amongst a group of formidable peers. Here are my notes:

1997 Ponsot Chappelle Chambertin – We had the 96 Chappelle last month and was very disappointed. Ponsot continues to confuse you and for this vintage, I had medium hopes for the wine. However, as Ponsot can excel in difficult vintages, I also had hopes we would be pleasantly surprised and this could sing. Well, it was the latter as this was the prettiest wine of the night. Medium bodied, soft aromas of sweet fruits, cranberry and earth. Very integrated and overall seductive. Rating:91.

2001 Joseph Roty Marsannay – A mild disappointment. I have had previous vintages of this and they have always been lighter bodied, firm with traditional fruits. This just went right by you with a very subdued nose and no real punch on the palate. Rating:80.

1998 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne Romanee Les Beaumonts – What is it with this vineyard. I never dislike the wines but I am seldom thrilled. This wine falls flat in this category of average. Very earthy and lively, with good acidity, but it lacks style. It is the most “Burgundian” of the wines we have in the evening but it didn’t necessarily deliver the best qualities of Burgundy.. 85 points.

1999 Leroy Pommard – A modern masterpiece. I would stress modern more than masterpiece. However, this combines the best of both worlds and really works. A full-bodied pinot with a toasty nose. Mineral and a profound earth scent remind you it is pinot. The palate is lush and heavy but the acidity is excellent. Although dark fruits prevail, you sense cranberry and sour cherry at the finish. I love this. 93 points.

1996 DRC La Tache – Wow, the finest La Tache I have ever tasted. First, this will last another 15 years and has years to peak. However, it is so luscious and sexy now that I could not understand how one could wait. It is full-bodied with dark berry nose, a hint of menthol, hot stone and sausage. The palate just explodes and if it were not for the wall of tannins at about 30 seconds, this would be as close to pinot perfection as I have seen. But the tannins are very present and in time, when they die, I will want to sleep with this wine. 98 points.

1996 DRC Richebourg – This was just as profound as the La Tache and may need even more time. More fruity and less complex than the preceding DRC, it had almost everything going for it. However, there was a funk to the wine. Not overpowering, but very present. I don’t think it was corked and the wine and the cork looked to be in perfect condition so I would rule out heat exposure, but it was a bit flawed. Regardless, it was still very enjoyable and a real pleasure. 90 points.

2002 Maurice Ecard Savigny Les Beaune Les Jarrons – This is pure Cote de Beaune. Ecard continues to deliver some of the best wines from CdB and incredible values. Steely, firm yet a profound mid-palate of intense berry fruits. The wine is subdued power and shows a power-elegance combination rarely found in CdB wines. I would love to try this in 10 years. 94 points.

1999 (Michel Magnien) Gevrey Chambertin les Cazetiers – I forgot the producer, so I am guessing - maybe someone can chime in. This was a pretty wine with a distinct floral quality. It did fall short of delivering and seemed confused. There was a hole in the middle and time may let it flesh out a bit. 84 points.

2001 SQN #6 – I have not had the opportunity to try a SQN pinot up to this evening. It was interesting. A pure decadent fruit bomb with lots of non-pinot qualities, a pinot that non-pinot lovers could admire.
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