Attendees: Kristin, Craig & Tony Von Teuber (Craig's Sister and Dad); Herman Diehl & Betsy Rauch; Oscar Picon, Brett Shofner (Kristin's friend), Cesar Basurto (Southern Wines), Jean Paul Desmaison (Chef, partner at La Cofradia, Coral Gables), Jaime Dickinson (Jean Paul's partner), Charlie Frumkin (Duo), and Mark Friedman.

Craig and Charlie organized this dinner because WINE SPECTATOR's james laube (diminutive intentional) claimed that the 1996 Cali Cabs were not aging well! Craig selected the Napa Cabs from his collection, most of which were retrieved from storage at Int'l wine Storage in the morning and double decanted at DUO in the afternoon.
Maria Frumkin's Menu: Veal Ravioli with hazelnut brown butter; Risotto with Oregon mushrooms, and fresh peas; Liberty Farms braised duck leg served on a bed of lentils with a cherry jus; pan seared Rib eye steak with bone marrow and shallots with crispy pommes Anna jus and sauce Béarnaise; Trio de Beignets, donuts three ways.
 
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
My Precis. The Original Menu led off with Diver Scallops, I brought this to pair with them, and had forgotten that I advised Charlie to change the course.

It is finally coming into its own. Clive Coates said it would take until 2007 to reach its prime, and he was right. Excellent minerality and good lemon scented flavor. Lacks the complexity of an extra-ordinary Batard or Chevalier Montrachet. (92 pts.)
1996 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 1, #1. The Abreu was the group preference in this flight over the Pahlmeyer (My preference). Both wines were exceptional, with the Abreu showing great class and vitality. The Abreu was Jaime's, and Jean Paul's WOTN. (94 pts.)
1996 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 1, #2. The Pahlmeyer was the consensus second choice in flight 1 to the Abreu Madrona Ranch. It has a unique flavor dimension to it that I love. I had this wine from my own collection probably five years ago and it is still one of my favorites. It was Herman and my WOTN among the 96’s (the 74 Heitz was in a world apart). (95 pts.)
1996 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 1, #3. This was clearly a disappointment, as it was totally outshone by its flightmates, the Abreu Madrona ranch, and Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red wine.
It can't compare with the 97 Montelena which I have had on several occasions. And if there were one or two wines that justify jl's criticism of the legs of this vintage, this fits the bill. (89 pts.)
1996 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 2 #1. vs Araujo Eisele vineyard, and Dunn Napa Valley. Came in 2nd in the flight to the Dunn, and preferred by all except Charlie over the Araujo. A pleasing Napa cab which at first seemed best, but with air the Dunn outshone it. Still has years ahead of it. (92 pts.)
1996 Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 2, #2 The groups least favorite in the flight except for Charlie. It was his WOTN. The group preferred the Dunn Napa and the Etude over it. A very good wine with no flaws, but didn't seem as flavorful as the others. (90 pts.)
1996 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 2, #3 WOTF. Preferred over the Etude and the Araujo Eislele V. Slight brett on the nose which blew off, to reveal a complex structured wine that would seem to be just coming onto its own. Cesar's WOTN among the 96's.(He too considered the 74 Heitz exceptional.) My 3rd favorite of the night, behind the Pahlmeyer and the 74 Heitz. (93 pts.)
1996 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 3, #1. WOTF vs Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace and Volcanic Hill. One of the top wines of the night. I originally mistook it for the Opus One which I have had previously, and which is considered one of the finest Opus' ever. A rich textured wine that reflects Randy Lewis' signature. Drinking beautifully. Everyone loved it, yet it was no one's WOTN (?). (94 pts.)
1996 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Red Rock Terrace - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
Flight 3, #2 vs Lewis Reserve and Volcanic Hill. There was nothing there. Worst wine of the evening. The Volcanic Hill was quite good and credible, this wine wasn't corked but ihad no bouquet, fruit, palate feel or finish. I have the 97 Red Rock Terrace which for me has been quite good. (79 pts.)
1996 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
Flight 3, #3. Very good. While the group was unanimous in this flight with the Lewis dominant, Volcanic Hill was a clear 2nd, and Red Rock Terrace failed to show up. This had minerality and structure, with good flavor, may be beginning to develop secondary characteristics. Compares favorably to my 97 and 98 Volcanic Hill's. (92 pts.)
1996 Opus One - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 4, #1. Its flight mates were BV Georges de Latour, and "WINE X" which was revealed as the legendary 1974 Heitz Martha's Vineyard. Between the two 96's it was the clear winner, and while not as rich and opulent as the Lewis which I mistook for the Opus was really quite good. It was the Von Teuber's (Tony, Kristin and Craig) WOTN. It didn't quite lived up to my memory of it, from several years ago. I think Laube may be right on this one. I would suggest drinking it up. (93 pts.)
1974 Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Flight 4, #2. Craig’s Mystery X Wine!!! THANK YOU CRAIG!!! The WOTN for Brett, Oscar and ME. The only way you could differentiate this legendary wine from its younger cousins was by the slight variance in color. It was more garnet than the others, but bouquet depth balance, etc were extraordinary for a 34 YEAR OLD Wine. To me it is testament to the fact that the best NAPA Cabs can age as well or better than their foreign counterparts.
About 30 years ago we had a dinner party for 4, where I paired the 74 BV Georges Latour, and the 74 Louis Martini Reserve (Monte Bello), vs 62 Petrus and 66 Palmer. To me and the other male, we both preferred the American's. The girls went for the French.
It is perhaps equally noteworthy that jl only gave this wine a recent 87, while RP gave it a 98(13 years ago)!
I failed to mention that CESAR immediately identified this as Martha's Vineyard, citing the unique eucalyptus notes, although he had no idea of the YEAR!
pps- I much prefer this wine to the 100 point 82 Latour with which I welcomed in the Millennium! (96 pts.)
1996 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Flight 4, #3. Unfortunately this had to go up against the Opus, and the legendary 74 Heitz Martha's Vineyard. It was quite good, but not memorable, and this too should be consumed soon.
Tony still has one,(or a few?) bottle(s) left of the equally Legendary 74, Andre Tschelitschef's last Latour at BV. Craig, you and Tony missed a great opportunity to pit those two against each other. I had purchased a case of the 74's 30+ years ago, from 67th St Wine & Spirits, NYC @approx $9/bottle. I finally consumed my last one about 10 years ago.
To me modern Georges Latour's can be quite variable, they are usually still quite good, but for a Senior citizen like myself, they no longer have the mystique from the 60's and 70's. (91 pts.)
2001 Rotllan Torra Priorat Tirant - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat
My enigma. Post Flights. I brought this to see how the group reacted to this wine, given Ellen's distaste, and my ???. I had vacuvinned 2/3 of the bottle last night.
It seemed to me to show much better tonight. And the group overall was intrigued by it, but as Cesar said, it was poor QPR. (91 pts.)

On balance the majorities of the wines to our tastes were better and have longer lives than jl's point of view. The Opus and BV do appear at or near their prime, and should be consumed soon. The Montelena is past its prime, and the Red Rock Terrace is not enjoyable. The others however seem to have years ahead of them and I would rate them higher than Laube.

Interestingly the 96 St Jean Cinq Cepages, WS WOTY, Laube now only gives an 87!!! I should have brought a bottle to see!