2002 BURGUNDIES AND OTHERS AT THE RAINBOW LODGE - Rainbow Lodge, Houston, Texas (5/18/2005)This was a great opportunity to taste some Burgundies over a fine dinner at the Rainbow Lodge.
ReceptionGrilled lollipop lemon parsley shrimp
Chardonnay braised rabbit strudel, orange aioli
- N.V. Eric Rodez Cuvée des Crayères - France, Champagne, Ambonnay
A champagne so dry that it had no charm. Very acidic and lacking fruit. (86 pts.)
- 2003 Barat Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Chablis
Tasted quickly with decent balance and minerality. Not much character although may show better with a good food match. (88 pts.)
- 2002 Domaine Larue Saint Aubin Les Murgers de Dents de Chien 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte d'Or, Saint Aubin
89-90 points; A very tasty Premier Cru from Saint Aubin. Notes of white peaches, apples and minerals combined with good structure. A lingering finish. At ~$25 relatively good value and a wine that I'm buying a few bottles. (89 pts.)
First CoursePan seared Chilean sea bass with jumbo lump crab, fava bean and frisee salad with a pan sauce
- 2002 Le Domaine Bzikot Père et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Grand Vin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Pleasant village level Puligny. Almost colorless and lighter in weight. More tropical fruit (pineapple) than one generally associates with a Puligny. Approximately $40 on release which seemed on the high side. (87 pts.)
- 2002 Le Domaine Bzikot Père et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
This wine was a step-up in quality from the village level Puligny from this producer. Again a more tropical fruit profile (more pineapples) than one normally associates with a Puligny, especially from this vineyard. Very light in color with reasonable structure but also light in weight. Spicy finish with chalky notes. At ~$60 on release this one is probably overpriced. (89 pts.)
Second CourseGrilled pancetta wrapped quail on a portobello mushroom risotto cake with a honey demi glacé. A note that this was so outrageously good that all of the diners were excited by it. A terrific match with the wines. Five stars!
- 2002 Jean-Michel Guillon Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Medium ruby in color. An elegant village level Chambolle but lacked the complexity to take it to the next level. Very nice floral, red fruit and spices but lacked focus. Well-priced at ~$30. (88 pts.)
- 2002 Jean-Michel Guillon Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium to dark ruby in color. Earthy on the noise with black cherry and spices throughout the middle. Very nice texture with an aromatic finish. Well-priced at $32. I'm buying this wine for a mid-range drinker - 2005-2007. It paired well with grilled quail. (89 pts.)
Third CourseRoasted elk loin, english pea puree, potato blini, fricassee of snap peas, parsnips and a mint truffle au jus. A note that the elk was very good but the mint in the sauce threatened the wines. The Chambolle and the Gevrey were overwhelmed and the Clos Vougeot held its own.
- 2002 Jean-Michel Guillon Clos Vougeot Grand Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot
Dark ruby in color with very earthy, floral and spicy aromas. This was one brawny Burgundy with layers of complexity and fine tannins. It was very young but seemed to have good potential for extended aging (10 years for a Grand Cru). Priced a bit on the high end for the quality at ~$100 but maybe not for Grand Cru burgundy. (91 pts.)
DessertWarm cinnamon apple strudel, Dulce de Leche ice cream; A superb dessert with a good wine pairing
- 1996 Domaine de la Bergerie Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Fragrance - France, Loire Valley
This was a late harvest Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. It had very rich flavors of pineapple and spice along with a very viscous texture. With good balance it finished clean and could probably last many more years. A treat. [~$40 for 500 ml] (91 pts.)
Thanks to the organizers of this event as the food and wines were very good. It was a nice evening.
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