North Carolinan Steve South is a participant on WCWN. He posted that he would be in town, so I volunteered to show him around our fair city.
Steve's plane was delayed for an hour, so I had ample time to relax and enjoy the comfort of the Mark Hopkins Hotel lobby. I had parked my car near Indigo Restaurant where we would end our day, and hiked the mile and a half to the top of Nob Hill where the Hotel is perched.
Steve arrived a little after three and I was happy to see that he was dressed comfortably West Coast Style, with trail shoes, since we were going to be doing a bit of walking. After a quick check in, we walked abreast of the cable car down steep Powell St. past Union Square to Market St. From there, we boarded one of the restored street cars that run to the foot of Market and then down the Embarcadero to Fisherman's wharf. Ours was an orange one from Italy.
We got off at Pier 19 to check out Dee Vine Wines, one of the top sources for German Wines. Steve picked up a half bottle of a four star something or other. He also couldn't pass up a magnum of `96 Robert Chevaillon Nuit-St-Georges for $65. I was tempted by some `98 Beacastel Rouge at the fair price of $65. We were treated to very knowledgeable and pleasant assistance.
I popped open the umbrella for the half mile walk back to the
Ferry Building Marketplace. Since we entered from the North, our first stop was at the Czar Nicolai Caviar shop. We split a glass of Champagne, and with appropriate condiments, we had a tasting portion of the California Reserve Osetra that I'd heard about. It did not disappoint. This was my first visit to the Marketplace and it was very impressive. Lots of specialty shops, mostly food oriented and some eateries. There are plenty of great places in the Bay Area to buy fancy food, but some of these, like the mushroom shop, took it to a higher level.
We split a French Press Pot of Arabian Mocha Sonaru from Peet's and I bought some beans of same for Steve to take back to NC. He found the wine shop, and picked up a nice Loire white. A bar of 85% cacao chocolate from Recchiuti Confections rounded out our purchases.
Umbrella open again, we walked a little over 1/2 mile to Mission and Third where
Vino Venue is located. Reported on in an earlier thread, this is the wine bar/automat, where you fund a card with $10, 20, or 50 and put it in a card reader at the various wine dispensing stations where you recieve a one ounce pour of your choice, and the price is deducted from your card.
They sell the wines by the bottle too, and there's a bar where they pour Champagne and desert wines (only regular .750's work in the vending machines). There was a very eclectic selection of wine and most were from outside the U.S. Steve really showed his knowledge here, being familiar with so many of the varied European wines. Prices ranged from $1.00 to $28.00 (`97 d'Yquem). Most were in the $1.20 - 3.00 range. We shared tastes, tried a few for $6-7 and spent $60 on 20+ wines. A `94 Musar (Lebanon), the essence of crushed rose petals, was my WOTN. I wouldn't be surprised to see these places popping up in many other cities.
We walked the block to Market Street where we caught a bus to McAllister St, then hoofed it past the Civic Center and a couple of blocks past Van Ness to
Indigo Restaurant . I had met Indigo's General Manager and Wine Director, Greg Quinn, through Andy Peay at Oliveto's White Truffle Dinner. Steve's visit seemed like a good opportunity to check the place out. We were seated at a nice table, our server took our appetizer orders and Greg opened the first of our wines: `97 Ch de Beaucastel Blanc. The wine was super nutty and resiny in the nose but very clean and precise in the mouth. Best showing yet for this wine and a good match with: Anchor Steam PEI Mussels with Julliene Onions and Celery. Served with Grilled Sourdough Toast and a Lemon Aioli.
Our next course was: Grilled Flatbread with Wild Mushroom Duxelle, Cave Aged Gruyere Cheese and Truffle Oil. The Beaucastel went well with that too. We began enjoying our second wine: `99 Corbieres du Boncaillou as our third course: Charcuterie Plate Featuring; Grilled Wild Boar Sausage,
Duck and Pork Paté and a Chicken-Truffle Mousse on a Brioche Toast Point
served with a Mâche Salad, Dijon Mustard and Cornichons. A great match with the rustic Carignan based Boncaillou.
Greg brought us a complimentary plate of Curry Dusted Seared Ahi with some dots of Creamy Red Pepper and Wasabi Aoli on the side. Refreshing for the palate before the next course, which was a Lamb Stew over some Fettucini or Paparadelle. Greg served us the next two wines side by side for comparison. `95 Guigal Cote Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis and `99 Yves Gangloff Cote Rotie La Barbarine. Quite a contrast in wines. The Guigal was still youthful, bright and silky, a very nice Syrah, but but not identifiable as Cote Rotie. The Gangloff on the other hand could be from nowhere else, with the band-aid and iodine nose (band-aid blew off) and dark meaty flavors that were super match for the New York Strip with a Porcini Sauce and Garlic Mashed Potatoes along with Blue Lake Green Beans. I don't order steak very often in restaurants, but this had Rib-eye like richness and the sauce pooled around it exuded earthy aromas.
We couldn't manage dessert, so we bid our host and server goodbye. For this quality of dining and service, the bill for $75 makes this quite a bargain. The long walk earlier up California to the top of Nob Hill became worth it now, as we made our way to my car parked a half block away. I took Steve back to the Mark Hopkins where he surprised me with the gift of a `86 Domaine Bourillon-Dorleans Vouvray for the BAWE Sunday Loire tasting. Thanks!!
My spit cup had served me well as usual, so the 30 mile drive back to Walnut Creek was uneventful and gave me plenty of time to reflect on an outstanding day.