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Seattle Tasting Group does 22 years of Phelps Insignia (4/17/2003) Last Post 04-21-2004 02:49 AM by stemor. 13 Replies. | Sort: |
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Eric LeVine  Grape Sorter
 Posts: 384
 | | 04-19-2004 06:36 AM |
| Yesterday I had the good fortune to attend one of the most educational and special tastings of my life. As part of an extravagant weekend that Roy Hersh put together, the Saturday night special was a 22 year vertical of Joseph Phelps Insignia. We were also fortunate enough to have Tom Shelton (the President of Joseph Phelps Vineyards) on hand to lead us through five flights of memorable and often special wines. Thanks to both Roy and Tom for an amazing experience! As if that weren't enough, we also assembled another 18 wines to have along with a series of dinner courses at Daniel's Steak House in Bellevue, WA. I would be lying if I didn't mention that by the 11th flight that people were getting weary. Can you say "too much of a good thing"... Thanks again Roy for another amazing experience! We started off with Insignia from the 1970's. The first few vintages were actually aged in redwood barrels, and this lent a remarkably cedary character to the wines. The 1974 in particular was vibrant and stunningly good, one of the best wines of the evening! - 1974 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 95 pts.
This is 94% Cabernet and 6% Merlot, aged in redwood barrels, the inaugural release of Phelps Insignia. Out of 22 vintages tasted in a vertical tasting, this was one of the clear highlights. The highly expressive nose shows cedar, mint and a lightly floral element. It reminded me of a sauna! Oh my goodness, the palate is VERY much alive, very vibrant and full of fruit. Long, pure and sweet, this is a delicious and elegant wine, what a treat!
- 1978 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 88 pts.
This is a blend of 50% Cabernet, 30% Merlot, and 20% Cab Franc. The note shows raw meat and mint. If my notes are correct, this is the first vintage of Insignia to see French oak instead of redwood barrels. At first this was minty and lively on the palate, but it dried out very quickly and showed a lot less fruit than the 1974.
- 1977 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 89 pts.
Wow, this one shows a lot more Brett than other Phelps of the 1970's, apparently due to somewhat dirty barrels. The nose is stinky with cabbage, cedar and very distinct barnyard that takes over with more air. However, the palate is much better than the nose. The finish is drying and somewhat astringent.
- 1979 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 90 pts.
70% Cab and 30% Merlot. Very youthful color. The nose on this is very expressive with cedar, cocoa, and cassis. The palate shows more structure than the other 1970's Insignias. The palate is stunning and vibrant with cooling mint. However, there are somewhat coarse tannins on the finish which holds this back a bit.
The 1980's wines were a little weaker with strong showings from the 1984 and 1987. However, the 1985 and 1986 were our only poor bottles of the evening. And while there was a lot to admire about the 1989, it was not quite in the same league with the other wines. - 1987 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 90 pts.
70% Cab Sauv, 20% Cab Franc and 10% Merlot. The nose shows iron and cedar. On the palate this has a nice attack of sweet cassis and finishes with a hint of astrignency but also beautiful, dusty tannins that really coat your palate. Surprisingly silky, this definitely had that iron fist in a velvet glove character.
- 1984 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 92 pts.
60% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot and 10% Cab Franc. This is very minty on the nose with a hint of Brett. The vibrant palate shows a blast of mint and very pretty sweetness. The finish is slightly drying, but this is a particularly elegant Insignia.
- 1985 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 87 pts.
60% Cab Sauv, 25% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc. The consensus was that this bottle was somewhat oxidized. I thought it was drinkable but somewhat off with vanilla and a slightly roasted character on the nose. The palate showed less purity than the other Insignia with a 'muddy' feel.
- 1986 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA]
60% Cab Sauv, 30% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc. This bottle was clearly oxidized showing vinegar and dill on the nose. The palate was shot. Not rated.
- 1989 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 89 pts.
80% Cab Sauv, 10% Merlot, and 10% Cab Franc. Really impressive color. Post-phylloxera, this shows a very different personality from the earlier Insignia with no more mint on the nose, now showing more cranberry. On the palate this shows a lot of structure and tart acidity, cherries and cranberry, much more red and citric. This wine seemed a bit underripe.
The early 1990's were a bit more hit and miss (with the 1998 thrown in as well), but the 1991 was an absolute home run of a wine! - 1991 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 94 pts.
This wine shows a knockout nose of cassis, mint, mineral and gunflint. Wow, this is quite powerful with incredible structure and balance, just impeccable, a truly beautiful wine.
- 1992 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 91 pts.
The nose was a little more earthy with black cherry. The palate is beautifully soft and approachable with lots of plum. This is somewhat tighter and less giving than the 1992.
- 1998 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 88 pts.
The somewhat high-toned nose shows bell pepper, cola, vanilla and caramel. On the palate this is quite herbal and fairly tight. It is approachable but a bit simple and not really at the same level as other modern Insignia.
- 1993 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 89 pts.
The nose is pretty with mint and black cherry. The medium weight palate is fairly vibrant with a tight finish. A number of folks thought this was slightly corked, but I didn't detect it.
- 1990 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 87 pts.
Iron and cranberry on the nose. Wow, this was quite less ripe than other vintages, tart. It does show reasonable structure, but the fruit is unimpressive.
The mid 1990's was clearly the strongest and most consistent flight. These wines went from strength to strength, yet each showed very differently and was as much a reflection of the vintage as anything else. Everyone fell in love with these wines! - 1994 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 96 pts.
This was my favorite Insignia. The nose is soaring and piercing showing mint, plum, and gunflint. The palate is fat, plummy, deeply layered and luscious. This is really dark in character, very long, yet so balanced and poised. This just screams Napa, I LOVE this wine!
- 1996 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 94 pts.
The nose on this is somewhat high-toned with violet. Wow, this has a lush palate, really pretty and very piercing and high-pitched with a chambord like element, very much more like a Quilceda than an Insignia. Lovely!
- 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 95 pts.
The nose shows oak and chocolate. Oh my goodness, the palate is so ripe, almost clumsy like a puppy, but it pulls it off. This shows chocolate and very ripe cassis. This is just so lush!
- 1995 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 95 pts.
On the nose there is a hint of VA with a very mineral rich character. Wow, the palate is very pure with screaming cassis and a very black, brooding element behind the fruit. This is very nicely balanced with stunning, tooth-coating tannins, so dusty, silky and persistent. Amidst the 1994, 1996 and 1997 this stood out for having the best structure.
The turn of the century also bodes well for Phelps. The 2000 was the only weak wine, and even it was very respectable. I was quite surprised with the strong showing of the 1999, and the 2001 was ethereal and will seemingly be the best Insignia ever with time. (I scored it the same as the 1994 which is my current favorite.) - 1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 95 pts.
This has a very pretty nose of cassis, mineral and a little gunpowder. This has stunning balance, almost unreal. I was really very surprised and impressed by this wine and the poise it showed, as I have read so much about the 1999 vintage being overly tannic. Not this wine!
- 2000 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 90 pts.
This is somewhat herbal with some caramel. The wood really lays on top of this wine right now. It does haev very nice cassis with lovely structure, but the finish is somewhat astringent. This is not integrated like the 1999 or the 2001.
- 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 96 pts.
Oh my God! The cassis, mineral and earth here are amazing. There is so much depth to the nose. On the palate this is vibrant and structured, very complex and expressive for such a young wine, surprisingly approachable. This is going to be a legend, perhaps the finest Insignia ever.
- 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia [Napa Valley, California, USA] 93 pts.
This was a cask sample. This still has lots of wood showing with a sweet oaky character and lots of raspberry on the nose. On the palate this shows crushing, tannic depth. This needs a lot of time to knit, but the raw materials makes for an exciting wine. 93++
Wow, with 22 vintages of Insignia behind us we moved onto dinner and a dizzying series of wines. We started with a couple of gorgeous bubblies and a lovely White Burg. - 1985 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Rosé Réserve [Champagne, Reims, Champagne, France]
Served from magnum. This has very dark color, well beyond the usual pale salmon. Stunning acid and mineral character, almost bracing. I wish I had more time to spend with this.
- 1990 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Vintage Réserve [Champagne, Reims, Champagne, France]
Very pretty with a yeasty, creamy character and a long mouthful of minerals. Lovely!
- 1996 Bouchard Père & Fils Chevalier-Montrachet [Puligny-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France] 91 pts.
The nose shows toast and charcoal. On the palate this is remarkably intense and driven with remarkable minerality. Wowza!
Next we moved to four enchanting Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I am a huge lover of the Southern Rhone, although I found these wines in particular a bit tough to appreciate. After so much sweet cassis, the earthiness and dry, papery texture of the Grenache took some time for ones palate to adjust to. Still, there was a lot to like here. - 1999 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée [Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, Rhône, France] 93 pts.
Tasted from magnum. The nose is gorgeous and high-pitched with lots of pine resin showing. This is so pure and approachable, very pretty and earthy with a gorgeous mouthful of provencale herbs.
- 2001 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée [Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, Rhône, France] 93 pts.
This is piercing with stunning garrigue, wow! The palate is dry and structured and seems to be shutting down pretty hard compared to my last taste of this wine.
- 1998 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois [Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, Rhône, France] 93 pts.
Wow, the nose shows a serious blast of raspberry with very right Grenache character. The palate is massively layered yet quite structured. Lots of wood in a very slutty style, very pretty and approachable. This has a ton of upside.
- 1995 Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape [Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, Rhône, France] 91 pts.
On opening this wine I was blown away by the horse stink when I put my nose to the bottle. However this blew off and shows much more pine resin and roasted meat. On the palate this is VERY tight and dry, not giving up much right now. Tough to evaluate and far too early to drink this monster.
Next we moved to a few wines in a California vein including my wine of the night in the form of the 1996 Abreu. - 1996 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch [Napa Valley, California, USA] 97 pts.
The lavish nose shows mint and caramel, explosive. On the palate this is deeply concentrated. OMG, what a simply unreal expression of Napa Cabernet with mind-blowing cassis. My favorite wine of the night that rendered me speechless.
- 1992 Cain Five [Napa Valley, California, USA] 87 pts.
The nose is spicy with bell pepper, quite herbal in character. On the palate this is more subtle and somewhat angular and lean, showing a bit of alcohol. I did mote that the balance was nice, and this was a pleasant wine in tough company tonight.
- 1995 Château Monbousquet [St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France] 89 pts.
Minerals, graphite and ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is very structured and mineral driven. The finish is drying and still tannic. This is a nice Bordeaux.
We followed with a lovely flight of Bordeaux highlighted by the structured but beautiful 1986 Lynch Bages. - 1986 Château Lynch-Bages [Pauillac, Bordeaux, France] 93 pts.
The nose shows cigar box and tobacco. On the palate this is quite tight and tannic with sweet cranberry. This is pretty restrained right now and still needs a long time to resolve, but it is fairly pretty.
- 1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron [Pauillac, Bordeaux, France] 92 pts.
The nose shows vanilla and violet. On the palate this screaming of raspberry and mineral with massive structure. This is very hard to approach right now, still a baby. Lots of potential here.
- 1996 Château Léoville Barton [St. Julien, Bordeaux, France] 92 pts.
Very black in color and personality. Wow, this wine rocks, but it is still stunningly tight (to be expected) with cranberry, cherry and mineral. There is so much more for thus wine to give yet, but it is locked away by crushing structure. Awesome, this will only get better.
- 1998 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière [St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France] 89 pts.
The nose shows ripe raspberry but with a weird citric edge. On the palate this is very plush with load of structure, but right now it shows a lot of acidity with an odd hint of orange juice. A little strange.
We finished up the dry reds with one from Australia and one from South Africa. - 1994 D'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings [McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia] 86 pts.
Very sweet and approachable with a fruit-pumch personality, almost like alcoholic HI-C. On its own this might be OK, but after a night of elegant wines this clashes terribly and is too sweet and cloying.
- 1997 Kanonkop Paul Sauer [Stellenbosch District, Coastal Region, South Africa]
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. Tart cranberry, underripe fruit. Ouch, this is a very rough transition from all of the other wines. Not rated.
Finally, we capped the evening off with a fabulous Zind-Humbrecht and a surprisingly nice dessert wine from Phelps. - 1995 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles Heimbourg [Turckheim, Haut Rhin, Alsace, France] 95 pts.
Deep color, almost rusty. Thick with botrytis on the nose. Oh my goodness, this is very near the wine of the night. The palate is stunning with laser-focused acid and unctuous ripeness. This wine has everything. Awesome, thanks Dave Browning for bringing this one!
- 2002 Joseph Phelps Esirebe White Table Wine [St. Helena, Napa Valley, California, USA] 85 pts.
The nose on this is cloying but the palate is nice, quite fresh with orange zest.
All in all, this was an ethereal evening of stunning wines. Thanks again Roy! Posted from CellarTracker! | | |
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Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13802
 | | 04-19-2004 01:20 PM |
| whoa! | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| Budman  Philly Suburbs
 VinoCellar.com Extraordinaire
 Posts: 23752
 | | 04-19-2004 02:23 PM |
| nellie!  | | | |
| ojeffso  warren, new jersey Wine Lover
 Posts: 4877
 | | 04-19-2004 06:08 PM |
| eric-i am a little surprised with the the showing of the 93 insignia and the 95 monbousquet. the last time i had the 93 insignia it was almost on par with the 94. the 95 monbousquet usually shows better at blind tastings, although the last bottle i opened a few months ago was corked. | | | |
| Eric LeVine  Grape Sorter
 Posts: 384
 | | 04-19-2004 08:22 PM |
| Quote:
eric-i am a little surprised with the the showing of the 93 insignia and the 95 monbousquet. the last time i had the 93 insignia it was almost on par with the 94. the 95 monbousquet usually shows better at blind tastings, although the last bottle i opened a few months ago was corked.
About half the folks in the room thought the 93 Insignia was slightly corked. I didn't pick it up myself, but assuming it was that would explain why my exerience differed from yours.
The Monbo was in tough company. It was a nice bottle, but that Abreu was just SICK! (and I mean that in the best possible way) | | | |
| ChangeMe  Grape Sorter
 Posts: 307
 | | 04-19-2004 09:30 PM |
| what a great tasting that has to be. how did you keep going  | | | |
| Eric LeVine  Grape Sorter
 Posts: 384
 | | 04-19-2004 11:49 PM |
| Quote:
what a great tasting that has to be. how did you keep going
Honestly, it was hard. Keep in mind that this Insignia tasting followed another large tasting the earlier evening. Then on Sunday, as if that wasn't enough, we did a mulit-decade tasting of ports followed by a 7 course Italian dinner and about 15-20 Italian wines. I'm still trying to catch up on all of my notes, although I won't share more detail on the Port lineup until Roy Hersh has had a chance to publish his official article. All told it was over 100 wines in three days.
And to be clear, it was WAY too much. Even spitting religiously throughout all three events, I felt totally worked over and exhausted. I was actually afraid that my palate would get shattered by all the tannins, but lots of water and bread throughout really helped to prevent that.
In the future I will limit myself to no more than 2 events of this size in 3 days. | | | |
| ChangeMe  Grape Fermenter
 Posts: 667
 | | 04-20-2004 01:42 AM |
| Sounds great. Had to be better than Taste Washington. I haven't heard a peep about it. I'm not holding my breath.  | | | |
| ChangeMe  Barrel Filler
 Posts: 1210
 | | 04-20-2004 04:29 PM |
| Taste Washington is a drunk fest more than a real tasting. I think I was the only person there that took notes last year. I only did two of the three events (friday and sunday) but still found it overwhelming. Awesome, but overwhelming  | | | |
| ChangeMe  Grape Fermenter
 Posts: 667
 | | 04-20-2004 11:28 PM |
| I haven't gone the last three years (includes this one). In '01 it was managable, but it was obvious it was getting out of control. Such a thing as growing too fast, eh?  Anything stand out? | | | |
| ChangeMe  Grape Sorter
 Posts: 307
 | | 04-21-2004 12:47 AM |
| eric, i haven't had 2 tasting like that in my life. can you sense a little jealousy  | | | |
| Budman  Philly Suburbs
 VinoCellar.com Extraordinaire
 Posts: 23752
 | | 04-21-2004 01:03 AM |
| Sounds like a challenge to me, AI!!!  | | | |
| Eric LeVine  Grape Sorter
 Posts: 384
 | | 04-21-2004 02:13 AM |
| Quote:
eric,
i haven't had 2 tasting like that in my life. can you sense a little jealousy
I am very fortunate to have found a knowledgeable, well-connected, generous and eager set of tasters in Seattle, and that has helped my wine education dramatically over the past year.
All I can say is that I hope you get the chance, and it you do ever make it to Seattle I'll open some nice things from my cellar.  | | | |
| stemor  Collierville, TN Wine Connoisseur
 Posts: 5577
 | | 04-21-2004 02:49 AM |
| Careful what you offer, Eric.  We loved our trip to the Emerald City back in the end of February and are looking forward to coming back when the mountain passes are open. | | | Cheers, y'all | |
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