Randy, I'm searching for a list of restaurants we went to on both of our trips. Most of them are around Alba. Fortunately there is now a high-speed highway in between so it doesn't take as long to wind between the hills.
Great is an understatement when it comes to food in Piedmont. The wines aren't too shabby either.
Found it -
MARCHESI DI BAROLO - a lovely lunch in the winery
L'OSTERIA DEL VIGNAIOLO, near La Morra - very good
LA LIBERA in Alba - one of the happening spots these days in Alba
LE TORRE in Barbaresco - a very small restaurant - lunch was superb
OSTERIA DELL' ARCO in Alba - again wonderful; the poster below didn't think so
LA CANTINETTA in BAROLO - small but my very favorite; the best filled pasta in Piedmont IMHO; a perfect lunch
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Other recos (from the Parker board but I don't remember who wrote them):
Also highly rated is Ristorante Belvedere in La Morra. Breathtaking views overlooking the Barolo valley below and an extensive, if a bit pricey, wine list.
I got a lot of advice from people who know the region very well and will say that Il Centro in Priocca was our finest dining/wine experience, although it's a little of the beaten path; runners up were Trattoria Della Posta and lunch at Belvedere. Ciao Tornavento is apparently hit or miss (we pretty much missed) and we lamentably never made it to La Libera in Alba which basically everybody said was great.
The problem is that it is relatively difficult to find a bad meal there, by American standards, so it is often dueling excellence! I will add a couple of more thoughts: avoid Osteria dell' Arco in Alba. It has seen better days. Haven't been to Piazza Duomo yet, but Michelin has said that it will get a star in 2007, and local word of mouth has been great. Also, skip Gener Neuv in Asti and Vecchio Tre Stelle in Barbaresco this trip. Both are good, to be sure, but do not presently rank with the likes of Il Centro and Antine. I would also advise against both Guidos this trip (but only this trip). There have been negative recent reports on All'Enoteca in Canale, which used to be stunning, so something is up there. I am not a fan of Da Renzo in Cervere, either. I think that it is very good and very popular, but not the best that the Piemonte has to offer.
Likewise, Il Cascinale Nuovo in Isola d' Asti and Da Felicin in Monforte. (Please understand that I have no doubt named what some would consider to be among the best ristoranti they have ever eaten in. I am not denying that possibility. Just making relative quality judgments among fine restaurants!) Avoid La Contea in Neive at all costs. (La Luna nel Pozzo is the place to go in Neive.) I vote for Il Centro, Trattoria della Posta (second not because it is better than Antine, but because it is SO delightful to eat outside there in the summertime) and Antine, in that order of priority, and a lunch at Lalibera in Alba. Drop one for Cinio if you will, or maybe work Cinio, or one of the others, in for lunch (della Posta is the one of my three that I would do for lunch rather than dinner). Il Belvedere is a fine, old-line place with a strong wine list, so it could be another lunch candidate.
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Feel free to PM me or email me at
"my moniker"@hotmail.com if you have questions. Having been there twice I might have more specific info if you need it.