Rome:
Since Tuscany was the focus of our trip, we did not have high expectations of Rome- but we just loved Rome and can’t wait to go back! The energy of Rome was more incredible than NY- and it was so beautiful!
We stayed at Hotel Mozart’s Residenza Vivaldi, on Via Del Corso, between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps-a great location that allowed us to walk everywhere! Our room was huge- with wood floors, a king bed, a huge plasma screen tv and a modern bathroom with Jacuzzi. We we were served breakfast, incl. cappuccinos, fruit, yogurt and croissants each morning in our room. I would definitely stay there again- we loved it!
On our first night, we walked to Pizzeria Baffetto and waited with the crowds in line for about 45 minutes. We were seated at a table with 2 other couples and ordered 2 pizzas: one with Zucchini Flowers and one with porcinis, sausage and onions. The pizzas are all personal size and come quickly- you have to cut them yourself- both were fantastic- some of the best we have ever had- thin crust with incredible fresh, intense flavors. From Baffetto it was a 5 minute walk to Piazza Navona to the famous Tre Scalini. It was chilly out, but there were heaters on their outside patio, so we sat outside and shared a one of their famous chocolate Tartufos (probably the most incredible, heavenly, rich, intense chocolate desserts we have ever had) and wonderful cappuccinos. From there, we walked about 10 minutes to see the Pantheon and found Della Palma-- a huge gelateria and candy store. We shared a small Zabaglione gelato that was delicious!
The next day, we met up with our tour guide from Scale Reale Tours for our tour of the Vatican. Our guide was originally from Cape Cod and spoke perfect English, he was a history student studying Roman Churches. There were 2 other American couples in our small group. All I can say is that the 4+ hour tour was beyond my wildest expectations- it was amazing and spectacular! It really was moving to see all of the famous art and sculptures and to be immersed in all of the history and beauty of the museums, the Sistene Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. We were glad that we had booked a tour- as we learned so much and got so much more from the experience had we tried to tour it ourselves. Following our tour, we were tired and hungry, so we stopped for lunch at Gusto Pizzeria, which ended up just 2 blocks from our room. Gusto is an Italian Wine Bar and Pizzeria that many people compare to Otto in NYC (a favorite place of ours) But Gusto was a disappointment! It was just too modern/contemporary and lacked charm- we felt like we were in NYC and not Rome and the pizzas we ordered, a red pizza with mushrooms and a white pizza with Porcinis and spinach were just average. Just not the kind of place one comes to Italy to visit. Luckily it was cheap- at $20 for 2 pizzas and sodas.
After a short rest in our room, we walked to the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, both were crowded with tourists- very touristy areas that we did not care for at all. We found the famous San Crispino Gelato near the Trevi Fountain and shared some of the best gelato of our trip: Chocolate, Banana, Licorice, Cinnamon/Ginger and Chocolate Chip Meringue. The only thing about San Crispino we did not like was that all of their gelatos were in silver tubs with lids, so you could not see the gelatos, making it harder to select which ones to try.
For dinner, we had reservations at Agata e Romeo (25 Zagat), which was highly recommended in all of the guide books and from visitor reviews. It was good- but we would not return or recommend this restaurant as the atmosphere was stuffy and the food was very rich and very, very expensive. It was over $200 euro just for food. We started with a bottle of 2000 Gaja Ca Marcanda Magri($60 euro)- a Cab/Merlot blend that we loved and was the highlight of our dinner.
We started with a complimentary fish and tomato stew. For appetizers, we ordered Zucchini Flowers with Ricotta and Mushrooms that were in a very rich butter sauce and Pumpkin Ravioli with Marjoram and Mussels. We then shared a risotto with porcini muchrooms, smaoked bacon and goat cheese that was excellent ($20 euro) but overly rich. Our entrees were a Tuna steak with sesame seeds and a Filet Mignon- both were good but just not great- the restaurant used a lot of butter and all of their sauces were very rich, seeming to cover up the flavors of the food. We skipped dessert as we were given a complimentary platter of Italian Cookies and mini-pastry.
On our last day in Rome, it was the warmest it had been since we arrived in Italy-in the mid-60’s and very comfortable. We walked to Piazza Venezia, and climbed the steps of this spectacular military monument for some panoramic views of Rome and of the Forum and Colosseum. Then we walked to Campo Di Fiore to go to the famous outdoor market and to find lunch. Our first stop was at a place called Buono where we shared a slice of Zucchini Flower Pizza that was delicious. Minutes later, we were at Forno, (next door to La Carbonara Restaurant and behind the flower stalls at the market) for a slice of their famous pizza. There was a line out the door, so we knew it must be good! We watched the long oval pizzas come out of the oven with assorted toppings, but we had heard they were famous for their pizza of thin sliced potatoes, Mozzarella, Carmelized Onions, Rosemary and Sea Salt. We each got a slice ($2.35 ea) and ate it outside in front of a large fountain. It was simply the BEST slice of pizza we have ever had- the flavors were perfect as was the crust! We would go back to Rome just for a Forno slice!
We walked around the market, where there were stands selling all kinds of fruits and vegetables- artichokes, zucchini flowers, fresh porcini Mushrooms, we wished we could have brought some home! Some of the booths were selling fresh fish and meats as well. It was so much fun to see all of the different and unique things. We browsed in the shops around the perimeter of the piazza and some of the side streets nearby and found prices for clothes, shoes, accessories, etc… to the lowest we found anywhere. Joe bought a really nice leather jacket for $200 euro in a small boutique that also sold pretty floating flower candles that I bought a bunch of. After some shopping, we were again hungry, so we decided to eat at La Carbonara on the edge of the Piazza. There we tables outside, so we could see all of the activity of the market while we ate. We shared a ½ bottle of Michele Chiaralo Dolcetto for $8. We shared 2 pastas- a Spaghetti Carbonara($9) and a Tagliatelle with Tiny Veraci Clams($10)- both were very good.
We walked back through Piazza Navona, looking for gelato. It was busy with lots of outdoor vendors and artists since it was so warm out. Tre Scalini had a long line, so we went back to see The Pantheon nearby in the daylight, this time going inside. It was amazing- we saw Raphael’s tomb, very eerie.
Our final gelato was at Giolitti, near the Pantheon, where we had a Chocolate and an After Eight Mint Gelato- yum!
After a disappointing and very expensive dinner at Agata e Romeo the night before, we decided we had better walk by Quinzi e Gabriele to check out the menu for our dinner. We were glad we did, as the menu prices were extremely high (entrees $40-$50) at this highly rated and recommended seafood restaurant- so we cancelled our dinner reservation.
On our walk back towards Residenza Vivaldi, we found Alfredo, a cozy-looking restaurant about a 15 minute walk from our room, so we booked a table for 8:00 pm. It turned out to be a perfect place for our final dinner in Italy!
When we arrived at Alfredo, we were seated at a very nice table and warmly welcomed with complimentary glasses of Prosecco. Our waiter was excellent, very professional as well as warm and friendly. We ordered a bottle of the 2002 Planeta Santa Cecelia Nero D’Avola($45) that we just loved! We shared an order of fettuccine alfredo made table-side by our waiter(made with just butter and shaved Pecorino, no cream)- the best we have ever had! We almost ordered a second order it was so good. Next we shared a salad of arugula with shaved pecorio, pears and walnuts. My entrée was 4 large grilled prawns on a skewer over grilled zucchini- yum! Joe had grilled sea bass with a cucumber-dill yogurt sauce and fennel that was the whole fish- presented and served tableside by our waiter- it was fantastic! For dessert, the tiramisu was a rich and creamy with lots of espresso flavor- one of the best I have ever had. This was a perfect end to our trip and dinner was less than half of the cost of the night before at Agata e Romeo- I highly recommend Alfredo of Rome! |