Last Thursday evening December 30, 2004 I had the pleasure along with four others to have what I consider to be the best restaurant experience I have EVER had.

The Chef's Table at Marinus Restaurant, The Bernardus Lodge, Carmel Valley, CA.

I would rate the food and service equal to the French Laundry and superior to Alain Ducasse and the Inn at Little Washington (arguable the top three dining experiences in the United States). The table in the kitchen put this meal way over the top!

I had never done the Chef's Table before and it had been a year (to the date) since the last time I ate there in the regular dining room. Since then they had hired some people that I knew but had no idea that they were working there. As we walk in we are greeted by an old friend who used to be a Club 19 at Pebble Beach, Gary. He is now the restaurant manager at Marinus and he did give us the royal welcome. Mark Jensen came up immediately and relieved me of my Bag-O'-Wine and quickly disappeared.

Gary took us back into the kitchen and led us to the Chef's Table where Mark had already opened the Champagne and handed a glass to us as we sat down (all glassware was Riedel with the Champagne and Chardonnay glasses being Sommeliers). Here we are right next to the Saute Station just behind the Meat Prep Station with the whole rest of this extra-large state-of-the-art kitchen sprawling out in front of us. About 30-35 cooks scrambling all over the place (no such thing as walking) with Chef calling out food orders at each appropriate station only to have the cooks at that station echoing back accapella the order. Amazing.

Then in front of our table Chef appears with our table captain (another familiar face). "David--aaa--I mean Mr. Niederauer...". It is my old pal Dylan Sheldon who used to be a manager for Kent Torre's Cheese Shop in Carmel. Turns out he left the Cheese Shop to start his own winery. This was his "night" job which all young winemakers need. He seemed just as excited to be our captain as we were to have him.

Chef came over and he, Dylan and Mark "evaluating" the wines that I had brought went through the "what do you like/dislike" rhetoric. They decided that we should have the six-course tasting menu (remember that number: six course).

Well the food and drink just started coming. Each course being served by five waiters with Dylan looking on. Chef coming over and explaining each cours (and taking a sip of wine from the space on the table where I had set his glass up and making sure it was always filled). Mark (somm) reading our minds as to what and when we needed wine. All that great food; all those wonderful wines; all that spectacular service; and the hustle and bustle of this gang of cooks all working like a Swiss watch loudly declaring back to Chef what was coming up next; completely wonderful and amazing! We had sat down at 7:30 and at 11:00 they said all we had left to do was the five dessert courses. With all of us protesting (what? more food?) I think Chef saw right through this guise and knew that we didn't want to quit yet... we could have eaten all night... at least our eyes were big enough but not our tum-tums. We were thankful (believe it or not) that they brought only one (large serving though) of each dessert. We passed them around the table twice.

At the end of the evening they brought over a lovely printed menu of all that we had eaten that night including the wines. They asked for us each to sign (and make comments) one of the menus which they said they would put in a scrapbook. Long before we were there the custom was for each diner to sign the wall around the table but this had long ago filled up. There was some space but I'm sure they were saving that for "real" personalities. Everybody who was anybody had signed the wall some in more colorful language than others. One famous chef who you would know even signed it "great fu....ing food!" with all the letters I have left of all very prominently displayed.

So here's the menu:
----------------------------
Marinus at Bernardus Lodge

David Niederauer
Chef’s Table Dinner
December 30th, 2004
************

LOBSTER & CAVIAR
creme fraiche

***********

HAMACHI TARTARE
santa barbara sea urchin, yuzu emulsion, japanese cucumber, watermelon radish

STEAK TARTARE
shallots, cornichons, spicy aïoli

********

MAINE DAYBOAT SCALLOP
seared, black truffle layered, young leek, jerusalem artichoke purée

*********

AMERICAN RED SNAPPER
seared, local chanterelle, bloomsdale spinach, red wine-shallot sauce

**********

BLACK TRUFFLE RISOTTO
« tuber melanosporum », carnaroli rice, parmigiano-reggiano foam

***********

FOIE GRAS
seared, caramelized pineapple quince, verjus infusion

*********

SONOMA DUCK
grilled, alder smoked, braised duck leg caillette, savoy cabbage, foie gras jus

*********

FALLOW VENISON
violette mustard « laquée », braised endive, bone marrow flan, poivrade sauce

***********

TANGERINE SORBET
vanilla bean panna cotta, citrus salad

************

CHOCOLATE NAPOLEON
tonka bean ice cream, almond praline

CHOCOLATE FINANCIER
hazelnut ice cream, satsuma orange

PEAR & CRANBERRY CHARLOTTE
honey ice cream, cranberry compote

PAIN PERDU
meyer lemon ice cream, vanilla-citrus salad

MUSCAVADO ICE CREAM
butternut squash tart, pumpkin seed brittle

***************

1997 Blanc de Blancs – Billecart-Salmon, Mareuil-sur-Äy, France
2000 The Boot – Sine Qua Non, Ventura
2002 Belle Côte Chardonnay – Peter Michael Winery, Sonoma (magnum)
1986 Sauternes – Château d’Yquem, Bordeaux, France
2001 Marinus – Bernardus Winery, Cuvée Tricia, Carmel Valley (magnum)
*********************

CHEF - CAL STAMENOV
CHEF DE CUISINE – CHRISTOPHE GROSJEAN
PASTRY CHEF – TIM BUTLER
WINE DIRECTOR – MARK JENSEN
MANAGER – GARY OBLIGACION
---------------------------

Total bill was just under $1200 including tip for five of us.
I brought all the wines (except for the Champagne ; $160 off list iirc).
Total BYO two magnums and two 750s; Corkage $0.
And somewhere along those "six courses" became fouteen!

It just don't get any better!

The only problem with this whole thing is that it is going to take me a very long time to share this experience with all my friends. The most people that can sit at the Chef's Table is five. But somebody's go to do it!

David - I'm green, just GREEN with envy! You lucky son-of-a-gun!! Thanks very much for sharing the experience with us!

I hate it when I start to gain weight just by reading!! This read was worth about 8 pounds! Thanks for sharing, davidn.

Sounds like a fantastic meal David. Marinus defines the term destination restaurant.

I'm glad you had such a wonderful time david. It really brings back the memories. I think we had the exact same staff taking care of us as well. I bet you can't wait to get back!

Sounds phenomenal and certainly makes me wish we had gone there when in the area over the summer.

EVery time we've gone to Carmel we've made a point of dining at Bernardus for all the same reasons. Never had the pleasure of the Chefs Table, but having lived within a stone's throw of Manhattan, and having dined at many of the City's finest until we moved away, every meal at Marinus consistently rates among the best we've ever had.

David:
It's been about a year since I was last at Marinus -- we didn't do the chef's table then, but we had a typically great experience. From your report, it looks like it's going to have to be the chef's table real soon!

david and greg, make a point to get the chef's table the next time you go. It takes a little doing because the chef books those dates himself and he is sometimes a little hard to get ahold of but I'd literally plan a trip around the date. I liked it that much.

High praise indeed, david. At times like this, we need a green envy graemlin.

David-
awesome write up sounds like a most memorable meal.

Wow, david, that is amazing! Sounds like I have to plan a trip just to Bernardus to experience this for myself. BTW, what is the tougher ticket, chefs table or French Laundry?

jb

For small groups, French Laundry.

Awesome, wish I was there

Pops! WOW! That sounds incredible!

Where is this place again?

Awesome!
You've got lots of jealous readers out here...

You know David if you could make up your mind re the Santa Barbara tasting then perhaps we could schedule the chef's table for the way down?

I knew I could count on you.