If it wasn't for Marlborough Sav Blanc NZ's wine industry would be much poorer. IN 1976 when Montana won several awards for it's Sav Blanc people were in awe. Then several other producers sprouted up proving that the region was capable of producing world class wine on a mass scale if the grapes and vines were handled correctly.
In 1983 Cloudy Bay was formed with help from the Cape Mentelle Group (at that point not owned by Veuve.) and with guidance from the Negociants group took the world by storm in 1989.
Marlborough is perfect sav blanc terrain. The summers tend to be initially cool then super hot through the late December to February periods. As the grapes reach their prime the temperature drops but sun shine remains good allowing the grapes to ripen without "burning" or heat dammage.
NZ's unique Sav characters are derived mostly from specific leaf management systems which were first discovered and utilised in Marlborough.
The typical Marlborough style has high acids with good strong tropical fruit concentration. The famous quote of "cats pee on a goosebury bush." describes the high acidic character and strong goosebury characters that Marlborough sav tends to be.
In recent years however there has been a solid move to more complex styles of sav blanc as a back lash by the New Zealand public looks towards more complex wines, particualrly the aromatic Pinot Gris. However internationally it seems that NZ sav blanc will represent our small country for many years to come.
This more complex style of sav blanc represented by Cloudy Bay Te Koko, Seresin Marama and a couple of others is oak aged and given full lees contact along with full malo-lactic fermentation. This creates a strong, complex wine with length and more in balance acidity than the typical Marlborough styles we are all so used to.
Marlborough itself is a large valley based around the township of Blenheim. This township was a small rural farming community but with the developement of the wine community the town has become a bustling tourist town.
The wineries and vienyards are spread out of several areas but are centralised around Renwick, the Awatere and Wairau Valleys. The Wairau valley shows promise for Merlot as well but has been a consistant and good producer of Sav Blanc for many years.
Producers of note- Cloudy Bay, Framingham, Goldwater Dogpoint, Georges Michael, Selaks Drylands and so many others its not funny.
In comparison to Marlborough, Nelson is NZ's smallest wine producing region. And ironically Sav Blanc is one of the last varietals to be planted with any emphasis.
The reason for this lies with Nelson success with Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, however what sav blanc has been produced here is certainly of great interest.
Nelson is situated some one hundred and fifty kilometers over a mountain range from Blenheim (about three hours drive due to the terrain) and is remarkably isolated from any major township. However it is one of the most beautiful and sun drenched regions in NZ. Beautiful rivers line the country side amongst apple and apricot orchards, olive trees, hops plants and of coarse grape vines. Beautiful beach areas (particularly Golden Bay -once called Murder Bay) make Nelson one of my favourite regions.
The region is large stretching from Nelson township in the east to Upper Motere in the west (some eighty kilometers) but due to the consistancy of the regional soil and weather is summarised by the same regional name.
Nelson Sav Blanc is interesting because the acididty and tartaric acids tend to be higher than Marlborough styles. This lends itself to an aged style as ooposed to the drink now style most NZ sav is. I recommend one to two years on my Nelson sav blanc.
It has very concentrated acids which dominate in the youth and allow little fruit to the nose of palate. As it developes however the wine gains lovely complex passionfruit and grapefruit flavours to come through.
Favourites are Te Mania, Neudorf and Woollaston.
See you next time for Canterbury and Otago.
