1996 Gamla Muscat Galil Region -- I was served this blind, and pegged it immediately as a young Alsatian Muscat. The floral fragrance was unmistakeable. After that, I guessed almost every wine-producing country I could think of, even Georgia (the Ukraine neighbour, not the state) and was told I was wrong. What a surprise when I saw the bottle, and another surprise when I saw the vintage.

According to the back label, this Israeli wine comes from the war-torn and controversial Golan Heights region (held by Israel but claimed by Syriah) and grown in volcanic soil at high altitude. I've not had much experience with Israeli wines other than the sweet Concord variety, and this was a real eye-opener. A beautiful burnished copper color, the only sign of its age; expansive nose of flowers and honey; medium-bodied and slightly oily in the mouth, with off-dry flavors of honey, pineapple, and honeydew melon; medium-to-long fruity finish. This wine would not be out of place in any line-up of Alsatian wines, flirting as it does with Vendange Tardive ripeness. App. 87-9 pts.

A dinner guest brought this from New York, where someone had recommended it to him last year. If it were available to me here, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another bottle. It would pair well with some spicy Asian foods.