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NorCalVinoLover  Barrel Sampler
 Posts: 2202
 | | 12-30-2004 11:19 PM |
| Welcome aboard CocoaLilo !  | | | |
| David Walker  Barrel Sampler
 Posts: 2284
 | | 12-30-2004 11:49 PM |
| A, seemingly, very upscale chocolate boutique just opened here in Boston (Copley Place). It's called "Richart." I've not yet been inside, but it looks like more of an upscale lingerie store (like Wolford) than a chocolate shop. | | | |
| ChangeMe  Barrel Sampler
 Posts: 2042
 | | 12-31-2004 12:47 PM |
| Mmmmmm. Chocolate lingerie.....  | | | |
| juggernt  Tampa, FL, USA Wine Bottler
 Posts: 3484
 | | 12-31-2004 02:44 PM |
| Welcome CL, to a wonderful and wacky world of wine and beyond! |
| | Visit The Butcher Block at http://www.butcherblocktampa.com/ | |
| Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13785
 | | 12-31-2004 10:14 PM |
| This article came out a short while ago, check it out--
All Chocolate, No Oompa-Loompas
December 22, 2004 By BRIAN CAZENEUVE
THE wheels were turning last week at Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven, where an employee was feverishly tossing too much powdered sugar into a rolling drum of macadamia nuts. In another time or place, he would have earned a four-star scolding, but not with Mr. Torres at his side.
"If you do it like that, it will puff out too much," Mr. Torres said, patting his puffed-out stomach and stumbling with a Charlie Chaplin gait. "See, just like me." Mr. Torres was not only relaxing a nervous employee; he was playing to his audience. Not 10 feet in front of him, noses pressed against the window that looks from the sidewalk right into Mr. Torres's workshop at 350 Hudson Street, at King Street, in SoHo. "People know we have fun here," he said. "They can watch to see what we do."
The Chocolate Haven is a 7,800-square-foot burst of imagination that is both an ode to the gastronomic craftsmanship that has made Mr. Torres celebrated as one of the world's premier chocolatiers and a nod to the whimsy that inspires him.
It is also one of the few places in the country that actually manufactures chocolate. Unlike in his five-year-old warehouse in Brooklyn, where he makes candy from chocolate, he goes one very risky step farther here: he is making the chocolate from cacao beans.
He longed for a spot in Manhattan, he said, mindful of not only attracting more people but also giving them something worth seeing. He had seen his customers squeezed into his tight 400-square-foot storefront in Brooklyn, straining to peer through open doors into the 5,000-square-foot factory, as if peeking into the magician's bag of tricks.
It has taken a while to get the magic in Manhattan just right. Mr. Torres found that expenses in his dream plan would have been nearly double his $1.5 million budget. The glass in the store cuts off at 11 feet in height, because Pierre Court, his designer, found that taller glass would need to be custom-made. The dream layout had included floor-to-ceiling glass.
"We anticipated there would be things we didn't anticipate," he said during a recent tour, when the factory was finally running.
Mr. Torres bought used machines from Italy, Mexico and Venezuela and purchased a refiner that was originally used to make lipstick.
Because of fire codes, he had to hide his roaster behind a windowless, reinforced sheet rack. He left alone a slope at the entrance rather than pouring concrete to level it. Instead of hiding pipes behind new plaster, Mr. Torres left the ceiling as an exposed highway of ventilation arteries beautified only by rolling gold lining inspired by the chocolate conveyor belt in a memorable "I Love Lucy" episode. With no general contractor, Mr. Torres twice delayed an October opening until Nov. 9 with products from his Dumbo store. He did not begin manufacturing chocolate until earlier this month.
He said he would need to make 500 to 600 pounds of chocolate each day to cover his $25,000 in monthly expenses. So why is he doing this?
"It's like the carpenter who wants to know how the wood grows to appreciate his craft," said Mr. Torres, 45, who was born in Algiers and moved to a fishing village in Provence, where he might have followed his father into carpentry had he not witnessed a chain saw take three of his father's fingertips one day. "I want to appreciate my chocolate. A candymaker can use base chocolate. A chocolatier should make his own."
When envisioning Chocolate Haven, he told Mr. Court to eschew conventional shop-and-counter layouts, to release his fantasy. In turn Mr. Court designed the windowed interior shop in the oval shape of a cacao pod, with views of working machines in the outer factory from every vantage point. Above the bar, where the specialty is hot chocolate (either mild Classic or the fiendish Wicked, with Latin-inspired hints of cinnamon, clove and ancho and chipotle chilies), he placed a statue of Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec god of cacao.
The interior has five tables; one will soon be reserved for children and have, in Mr. Torres's words, "small rocking chairs fit for mini-butts." By February he hopes to have five computer screens for customers to learn the process of making chocolate as they watch the evolution live behind the windows.
"I wanted to see my profession and not just my product," said Mr. Torres, always giddy and caffeinated. "Everybody loves chocolate, but it's such a mystery to them. How does this magic happen?"
On this day Mr. Torres was making chocolate with the tangy beans from Ecuador and the nutty beans from Ivory Coast. He put them in the roaster for half an hour.
"So the potion starts now," he said. "Are you ready for the takeoff?"
The ventilation system tamed most of the aroma in the room, but the waft at the edge of the roaster's base was intoxicating, like being inside a giant cacao pod. In a part of the factory hidden from public view, Mr. Torres placed the beans on a cooling rack and then in a winnower that cracked them between steel rollers, removed the shells and spilled the nibs into bags. The nibs have an acquired tart and bitter taste, and Mr. Torres processed their particulars in his mouth, with every blink, nod and squint hinting at the beans' character. "I tell you, for chocolate Ecuador is a strong country," he said, sensing the sharpness of the beans.
Now in public view, he poured the nibs into a grinding machine, a mixer where the dry beans released their cocoa butter and morphed into liquid. This was the first hint of a chocolate's sheen. As he inhaled and waved his hand in front of his nose, the people at the windows licked their lips.
At the refiner Mr. Torres had trouble at first keeping the machine cool enough so it wouldn't spray chocolate around, so he called a timeout to bring over some bags of ice. He incorporated sugar, vanilla beans and lecithin next into a conche that grinds them into small particles, aerates the mix and blends it with the cocoa butter.
He then moved that liquid into a tempering machine where the chocolate was first cooled and then heated in order to crystallize the cocoa butter.
"Eighty-eight degrees," Mr. Torres said, changing from artist to scientist. "That is when chocolate gets hard and soft. It dances at that special note."
After tempering the chocolate, he started pouring it into bar molds. He ran to get a camera to take a picture of "Bar No. 1," the first one he had produced using this particular mix of origins. After he removed the molds from the freezer 20 minutes later, he started calling people over to elicit their opinions of the blend.
"Sharp, but not so smooth," he said. "Oh, we can do better." He encouraged and listened to each opinion of his staff members. When friends showed up a few minutes later, he gave them samples and asked for their thoughts, too.
"The signature needs less Ecuador," he said. "I need to wait a few minutes. Then I cool my taste buds and I taste some more."
Later Mr. Torres offered yet another comparison for his product.
"You know, chocolate is like romance," he said. "It makes your eyes close, your mouth water. It makes you playful. You feel it? You see what I mean?" | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| love_cab_chard  Master of Wine
 Posts: 12714
 | | 06-20-2005 02:33 AM |
| Over the last couple of months:
Sao Tome Varietal Reserva Chocolate 72% Cocoa Scharffen Berger Pure Dark Chocolate 60% Cocoa Villars Maitre Chocolatier Chocolat A L'Ancienne Noir 64% Cocoa Terra Nostra Organic Truffle 57% Cocoa Ocumare Unique Origin Criollo 71% Cocoa Guaranda Unique Origin Forastero Arriba Cocoa 61% Cocoa | | | |
| love_cab_chard  Master of Wine
 Posts: 12714
 | | 06-24-2005 02:01 AM |
| Michel Cluizel Amandes Au Chaudron Caramelized Almonds coated with 62% Dark Chocolate. WOW!
I am in this bakery. I notice Michel Cluizel dark chocolates. It is not often that one can buy Michel Cluizel dark chocolate(s) in America. So, I bought just about everything they had in the store to keep in my cellar. These can be stored in the cellar for months...
The sales lady tells me, “why don't you try these right here”.
I tell her that I am not a big fan of any chocolate covered nuts.
She tells me..."listen to me, just try it. These are NOT your every day chocolate covered nuts."
Hey, the lady is correct: these are NOT! If you see these, grab 'em! But, I figure these are not easy to find. :-( | | | |
| Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13785
 | | 06-25-2005 01:32 AM |
| Thanks for the tip LCC. These sound fantastic! | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13785
 | | 06-25-2005 01:34 AM |
| | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| love_cab_chard  Master of Wine
 Posts: 12714
 | | 06-25-2005 02:47 AM |
| Ohh man, that's it, dude! Rock on! Great stuff! | | | |
| Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13785
 | | 06-25-2005 07:51 PM |
| Cool. I think I am going to order some. But I wonder if I should wait until the fall. It's over 90 here today. | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| love_cab_chard  Master of Wine
 Posts: 12714
 | | 06-25-2005 08:44 PM |
| Absolutely! I will wait until then also (to order from the place that sold me this bunch).
Unless, of course, you like your almonds with melted dark chocolate on the side.
The place that had these chocolates is rated in the top 5 bakeries in North America. They are located in Saratoga Springs. Honestly, I ordered some pastries & breads @ that place. Good stuff, but rated that high?!? | | | |
| TBird  Park Slope, Brooklyn Master of Wine
 Posts: 10199
 | | 06-25-2005 09:04 PM |
| these do look great. any idea on the cocoa percentage? | | | |
| BellaDonna  Barrel Racker
 Posts: 1890
 | | 06-25-2005 09:31 PM |
| Man, that website made me drool.  In your opinion, does Michael Cluizel chocolate taste better than Scharffenberger? | | | |
| Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13785
 | | 06-26-2005 01:30 AM |
| I am like Augustus Gloumpf, I want to get thrown out of Willy WOnka's Chocolate Factory after falling in to a river of glorious chocolate!  | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| love_cab_chard  Master of Wine
 Posts: 12714
 | | 06-26-2005 05:10 PM |
| TBird: the box that I have is 62% cocoa. Only a few remain. These almonds are roasted perfectly. I am telling you, I am not @ all a fan of any type of chocolate covered nuts. But, these are great!
BellaDonna: I like the products from both producers. Cluizel is up there as a producer & very much respected. | | | |
| TBird  Park Slope, Brooklyn Master of Wine
 Posts: 10199
 | | 06-27-2005 12:31 AM |
| Quote:
TBird: the box that I have is 62% cocoa. Only a few remain. These almonds are roasted perfectly. I am telling you, I am not @ all a fan of any type of chocolate covered nuts. But, these are great!
nice! i am SOLD! thanks for the heads up!  | | | |
| BellaDonna  Barrel Racker
 Posts: 1890
 | | 06-27-2005 03:53 AM |
| I had a mini Schraffen Berger Nibby Bar tonight...mmm...what are those bits in there? | | | |
| Pool Boy  Laurl, MD (DC suburb) Master of Wine
 Posts: 13785
 | | 06-27-2005 01:13 PM |
| They are cocoa 'nibs'. Seriously. And those Nibby Bars do rock. | | | www.roguefood.com -- www.cellartracker.com | |
| love_cab_chard  Master of Wine
 Posts: 12714
 | | 07-16-2005 03:07 PM |
| Veritas True Flats Cherry Almond & Dark Chocolate: pass & not recommended. The dark chocolate is not of high/good quality. | | | |
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