Ben Glaetzer Wine Dinner, at Table 6 in Denver September 26, 2006

These notes are a compilation of the evening's wines, and I’ll fess upfront that I’ve been a fan of Glaetzer wines for a number of years, whether his own, Amon-Ra or Mitolo. All wines were opened at 3pm, with the dinner commencing at 6:30. Glaetzer is quite young (29) and was a friendly host, who raided the restaurants’ cellar for Godolphin when the slated wines were running low, and was interested in going out for a few beers after dinner. Real nice guy, and quite a lot accomplished so young.

Here go the brief notes

6:30 – 7:30; The first 3 wines are Glaetzer purchases from the Ebenezer vineyard, though from different blocks with different soil types. Noticeable distinction among them, served with a first course of seared foie gras, parsnips and pears. Neat appetizer, followed by Quail stuffed with mac and cheese spaetzel

2004 Glaetzer Wallace- This Shiraz/Grenache blend was the least enjoyable to my wife and I, as well as those at our table. Ripe fruit was a bit too peppery, and early on seemed medicinal. While this continued to soften, it didn’t seem quite together yet. 87pts. (RP89-91). Our first bottle of this was slightly tainted.

2004 Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz – This shiraz comes from a variety of vines up to 80 years old, and is aged in larger hogsheads to minimize oakiness. Lots of fruit, with plum and spice and cinnamon, this was a clear step up from the Wallace, and quite enjoyable. 91 pts (RP91-94).

6:30 – 7:30 - 2004 Glaetzer Shiraz – This was easily the finest of the trio, more refined than the others and nicely balanced. Vines are between 80 and 115 years old Pepper and chocolate easily shined through a bed of fruit, which is aged for 16 months in oak, compared to the 14 months for the two previous wines. 93+pts. RP94-96 [url=http://www.vinocellar.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=351989&page=4&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&vc=1] ]Prior TN Here[/url]

7:30-8:00
The wines above ran-out earlier than expected, so Glaetzer raided the restaurant’s cellar for some 2004 Godolphin. I’ve really enjoyed this wine over the last few months, and tonite was no exception. I really think the cabernet fruit helps to soften the wine, which I still rate at 95pts. (RP 94-96)

8-9:30. 2004 Glaetzer Shiraz] Veal Cheeks, richly prepared, almost like an osso bucco, followed by a course of several cheeses and a trio of fresh fruit sorbets.

This course was a highlight, accompanied by what Gleatzer said was his first-ever vertical of this depth. Amon-Ra, 2002-2005

2005 – This was VERY TIGHT, with gobs of berries and a very spicy taste pretty much overpowering everything else. Glaetzer said that this had only been bottled a month ago, and it still appeared to be in bottle shock. I can’t tell whether or not this will rise to the level of its predecessors, but when talking one-on-one after most had long left for the evening, he said that this might approach the 2002 in terms of purity and depth and admitted that while it was his wine and was only beginning to go on sale (his disclaimer), he thought it might be the best Amon-Ra yet, and a hint of where he hopes to take the Amon-Ra label.

2004 – Still young but fine, and has improved dramatically since I last opened a bottle in Feb. Tons of blackberries, but beginning to soften and seems slightly thin. 94pts (RP93)
2003 – Dark, silky wine with lots of black fruits. Still pick up smoke and tobacco, this seems to have softened during the year since I last opened a bottle without any of the components fading into the background. 95pts, and will improve further as it ages. (RP96-100)

2002 – Elegant and phenomenal. Incredible blueberries with a silky mouthfeel, and far more refined than the other wines of the evening. A 30+ second finish only begins to hint spice if you hold onto the wine for awhile. This is so well-integrated and unlike many of the aussie-fruit bombs, you’d be hard-pressed to recognize this as a shiraz against most shiraz on the market today. 97pts (RP96-100)