1998 Penfolds Shiraz "Grange". South Australia, Australia. 14.5%
alcohol. $300.
Impenetrably colored with thin deeply hued legs. Rather closed at present but there is no denying the wine’s formidable latent power. Roasted earth, cashews, some balsamico, and deep, near bottomless red and black fruits can be coaxed out of the wine with extended airing. Huge but polished tannin with more than enough acidity to carry the wine during its needed long sojourn in the cellar (although the cynic in me thinks that the wine’s structure should be near perfect given the engineering Penfolds applies to this wine). Right now this wine is all about potential. The 1998 consists of 97% Shiraz and 3% Cabernet. The grapes came from the Barossa Valley including Kalimna Vineyard, Padthaway, and Magill in Adelaide. The wine was aged in new American oak for 18 months before being put into bottle. Drink 2017 to 2024+. 96 points.